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Rob's 97, nothing crazy

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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/10/2016, 1:35 pm

Does ac work right now?
I have a co2 tank and a small compressor, i get by.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/10/2016, 2:14 pm

you don't make it easy huh?
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  janesy on 3/10/2016, 4:44 pm

Rob Cote wrote:Actually you know what I just got to thinking maybe this is a good time to convert to OBA. Do I really need air conditioning?

hmmm

I just converted my AC to OBA this past weekend. Jiffy Lube cost me $50 to evacuate the system. Then somewhere around $200 for all the parts to make the OBA setup. Works mint. So fast to fill up tires and I might be able to run air tools for a short while if I keep the RPM's up around 1500 or so. So rigging up a hand throttle is in the works.

Who really needs AC in a Jeep. The top should be off when its nice out or you're not doing it right..
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/10/2016, 6:27 pm

That's 1 for, 3 against. Anyone else?
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/10/2016, 7:03 pm

I don't believe i'm doing the jeep thing wrong, HAHA LOL

If i ever decided that i didn't want ac any more i would convert it over to oba for sure.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 3/12/2016, 6:49 pm

As someone who never owned a vehicle with working A/C before my Cherokee I definitely would not ditch it, but it's my DD so it's a totally different situation from your TJ. I know it's not as cool or convenient as OBA, but I have a 12V compressor that will fill four 33s from like 10 psi up to 25 in under 10 minutes, which includes me moving from tire to tire. Spent like $60 on it and it's never let me down.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/14/2016, 7:33 am

Okay fine, I'll keep the stupid a/c.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/14/2016, 10:47 am

Rob Cote wrote:Okay fine, I'll keep the stupid a/c.

Just because the AC has an IQ of 50 degrees is no reason to call it stupid. lol
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/22/2016, 12:45 pm

Mark wrote:
Rob Cote wrote:Okay fine, I'll keep the stupid a/c.

Just because the AC has an IQ of 50 degrees is no reason to call it stupid. lol

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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/22/2016, 12:51 pm

Didn't take long to get the dash apart. I hung it with string inside the cabin so I don't have to pull the steering column and shit. Got a couple of the nuts off the firewall for the HVAC unit, but a few of the studs decided to spin in the housing. I called it a day at that point because I had some other stuff to take care of. Hoping to get back at it tomorrow. I'll probably just cut the studs off and address it after. Anyway, decided while I'm in there I'll also install a relay for my CB, I think I'm under-powering it because my range is pretty bad, even with a 4ft antenna tuned near-perfectly. I replaced with a 5 footer, so...anyone need a 4ft Firestik cheap?

I haven't had a chance to probe around behind the dash, but does anyone know offhand where there might be a 12V constant source capable of 2A that I could use for my CB? If I have to run straight to the battery, that's fine, but if there's already a terminal inside the cabin that's obviously preferred. It's a '99 if that matters.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/22/2016, 1:27 pm

These work well, they let you tap into a fuse holder inthe fuse box and lets you use 2 fuses to make two different fused circuts.
You can get at AZ and other parts stores also.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/47607407?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227034811685&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=75443192914&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=175432032274&veh=sem
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/22/2016, 1:45 pm

I'm not too concerned about HOW to tap into a circuit, I was just wondering WHERE, if a place exists. Sometimes a manufacturer leaves untapped (typically somewhere near a fuse block) a source of power for uninstalled options or just-in-case. I'm just not familiar with where this is in a TJ and I haven't had a chance to look yet.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 3/22/2016, 3:45 pm

Rob Cote wrote:Didn't take long to get the dash apart. I hung it with string inside the cabin so I don't have to pull the steering column and shit. Got a couple of the nuts off the firewall for the HVAC unit, but a few of the studs decided to spin in the housing. I called it a day at that point because I had some other stuff to take care of. Hoping to get back at it tomorrow. I'll probably just cut the studs off and address it after.

Sounds exactly like my core replacement. Don't cut the studs off if you don't have to. I had one spin on me and just used a small pair of vice grips to hold it as close to the firewall as possible and got the nut off no problem after that. I cleaned up all the studs really well with a wire brush after I got the HVAC box out and that same stud never spun when I went to reinstall it. If your luck is as good as mine then it's likely the stud directly behind the valve cover; it looks like an impossibly small amount of room to work with but I assure you it can be done.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/22/2016, 4:59 pm

Found this info,

,,quote,,
separate wires coming from somwhere around the fuse block. One is red (unswitched) and one is blue (switched). They have stickers on them stating what they are, just dig around the existing wires, etc. you should be able to spot them.

Hope this helps, keep us posted.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/22/2016, 7:37 pm

Okay I got it. I had to cut one off, and vice grip 2 others. Obviously one was the one behind the valve cover. Anyways, can I buy replacement studs anywhere? I didn't realize they're just threaded onto the HVAC box.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/22/2016, 7:40 pm

Also, Mark, does that quote refer to the fuse block under the hood or behind the glovebox?
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/22/2016, 8:09 pm

It said Behind the glove box.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/23/2016, 8:29 am

You guys could have told me that the studs thread into the HVAC housing, and that even though the nuts weren't coming off, I was still making progress. Oh well, it's always easier once you know how the stuff goes together. I cut one stud off, so I need a replacement, or a really coarse threaded screw. I think I found a replacement online for a buck and change, but shipping puts it around $15 so...nah.

Also recently discovered that for whatever unknown reason I didn't install one of the body mounts. So I need a bolt for that. The rear-most are 1/2-13x4" long from the factory, correct?
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 3/23/2016, 9:16 am

Rob Cote wrote:You guys could have told me that the studs thread into the HVAC housing, and that even though the nuts weren't coming off, I was still making progress. Oh well, it's always easier once you know how the stuff goes together.

Well you honestly taught me that they're threaded in as I never even looked that closely at them. When mine began to spin I just assumed that whatever was holding the back side in place had broken off the plastic inside the HVAC box, and as soon as I saw the stud spin and not the nut I immediately stopped and grabbed the vice grips and went from there. If they're threaded in I guess you could just use an appropriately sized self-tapping hex head and accomplish the same thing...? I don't recall being able to see/access the studs when I took the HVAC box apart so I don't know if you could just put your own bolt through those holes, but at that point those studs were frankly one of the last things on my mind throughout the process. It's also possible (and probably likely) that the TJ box and the Cherokee box are designed differently which would explain your experience.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/23/2016, 9:53 am

Could be different, I'm really not sure. I think I'm just going to replace the stud with a bolt because $15 for A stud is way too much money. It'll be fine.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 3/23/2016, 10:40 am

Exactly. As it is a Jeep, any possible squeak from that will pale in comparison to every other squeak you hear going down the road. Like I tell my friends, if the check engine light wasn't on how would I know the engine's still there?
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/24/2016, 7:58 am

Mark wrote:It said Behind the glove box.

Thanks Mark, it was very obvious. Two wires; one for up to 3A, one for up to 10A. Got that all squared away.

THOOPY3 wrote:Exactly. As it is a Jeep, any possible squeak from that will pale in comparison to every other squeak you hear going down the road. Like I tell my friends, if the check engine light wasn't on how would I know the engine's still there?

I hear what you're saying and most would probably agree. I'm not saying that my Jeep doesn't make noise, but I make every effort to abate any additional noises. The ones that are there are on my list to address at some point in the future. The main noise actually is the hi-lift. I'm not sure what to do about that.
But anyways, proud no-CEL'er here.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/24/2016, 9:41 am

That's great Rob i'm glad it worked out for you.

Where do you have your hi lift mounted ?
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/24/2016, 9:47 am

It's on my tire carrier:



The noise comes from the jack itself, not the jack mounting.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/24/2016, 9:54 am

You need to remoove the foot pad they make a racket and wrap handle and Mechanism with a ball bungee cord.
I have them on mine and it doesn't rattle.
I can show you mine at BBQ.

http://www.wired.com/2009/05/ball-bungees-the-handiest-thing-you-never-heard-of/
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

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