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Rob's 97, nothing crazy

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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/24/2016, 12:34 pm

I have some of those bungees so I'll have to check that out. These are the wires for aux power for anyone who might need to find them in the future:



Blue is 3A red is 10A according to the tags. If you access the fuse block behind the glovebox, you can't miss them.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/28/2016, 12:41 pm

1 step forward, two back is my theme lately.

I got the heater core job "done". Took it out to fire it up so I could top off the coolant and find out that the blower fan doesn't work for some reason. My guess it's either jammed or I forgot to plug something in. IDFK. Haven't had time to dig in much yet.

Got three new tires mounted, rotated the very-low-miles spare in, and saved a medium-tread-remaining one for the spare. Asked them to align the front and explained that since I have IRO OTK steering links, it'll be different than stock, but there is adjustment in the system still. "Ok no problem." The call me later the tires are mounted but they "can't align it" because the steering links are "bent" and "need to be replaced first", so they don't charge me, whatever. (I look at the links again, even though I was sure, just 'cause...you never know, you know? Yeah, they're bent obviously those bends are SUPPOSED to be there. So going to try again somewhere else. I would just do it myself, but where the fuck is the time?!?) "Oh and your front u-joints are about to fall apart." Sweet thank.

So, u-joints on order. Keep wondering when I'm gonna have time to take care of all this stuff. lol!

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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/28/2016, 2:13 pm

Seems like if it's not one thing it's another .
Maybe you forgot to plug in the blower motor resistor,,, (oh, that's too easy to be the case),, hopefully it's something minor like that.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/28/2016, 2:20 pm

Does that have to get unplugged to take the HVAC unit out? I don't recall plugging it back in, but also don't remember unplugging it. That would be awesome and I'd feel like such an idiot.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/28/2016, 2:24 pm

Oh, I did a small bit of testing before I went ahead and ripped the whole dash back out. I pulled the fuse for "HEVAC FAN" or something like that. Obviously the fuse is fine, but when I put it back in, the relay clicked. So that has me thinking that the wiring is good but the fan is jammed. But maybe not necessarily. I dunno. Because the control knob was set to off, yet the relay still clicked. So I thought that was odd, but maybe nothing. I'm not clear on how exactly the system is wired.

Anyway, I want to try to pull the fan into the engine bay, without removing the HVAC unit, is that possible? If it's pretty straightforward, that would help with diagnostics.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 3/28/2016, 3:13 pm

I remember I had to unplug the blower motor wiring harness as well as a connector in the dash at some point during my core replacement. The whole blower motor also had to be removed from the HVAC box in order to split it in half during mine as well. Here's the link I used for mine; it may be WILDLY different from the TJ but it's a start: http://buckeyejeeps.com/stuff/XJEvapReplacement.pdf. CTRL + F the write-up and search "blower motor" and you'll get a few visuals of what I'm talking about. If anything looks familiar and you don't remember plugging them back in it's possible you missed a step. It is possible to remove the blower motor from the engine bay on a Cherokee, and I imagine it's the same on a TJ. I know Jeep designs some janky shit, but there's no way they made it so you have to pull the whole dash out to change that.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 3/28/2016, 3:21 pm

Also, and again this may just be for Cherokees, the blower motor will work on high/4 (and high only) even if the resistor is cooked. So if you have no fan action at all I'd lean toward something being unplugged somewhere if it worked beforehand and not now.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/28/2016, 5:18 pm

THOOPY3 wrote:Also, and again this may just be for Cherokees, the blower motor will work on high/4 (and high only) even if the resistor is cooked. So if you have no fan action at all I'd lean toward something being unplugged somewhere if it worked beforehand and not now.

Your right TJ, thats how most vehicles are when the resister blows.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 3/31/2016, 8:16 am

So I missed the electrical connector for the mode selector knob somehow. I don't know. I guess I forgot that it had both vacuum and electrical connections. Anyway, that was an easy fix, thankfully. Got the driver's side u-joint sorted. It actually is pretty easy, since I've had everything apart before to do the wheel bearings and brakes. I wish I could upload the video I made of the slop in the passenger's side joint. Hooo boy. I'm thinking it's the source of a clunk in my front end that I haven't been able to diagnose. We'll see tonight. So, anyways, is it normal for the bearing caps to explode when you disassemble the u-joint? I had to use a torch, PB Blaster, and quite a long breaker bar on the ball joint press to get this junk apart.



This cap shot out, luckily into the cement wall. It would have gone through my window if I was a few inches over. Had some serious force behind it.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 3/31/2016, 11:34 am

You got heat sorted out, that's great that it was something simple too.
Hmmm, it seems that U joint just didn't want to come out.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  cmartyj93 on 4/3/2016, 11:43 pm

I've definitely had a cap blast out like that after cranking on it with a ball joint tool. Every once in a while I find a piece of it in the garage lol!
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/4/2016, 7:26 am

Mark wrote: You got heat sorted out, that's great that it was something simple too.
Hmmm, it seems that U joint just didn't want to come out.

What the hell Mark, you spoke too soon. lol!

The blower fan stopped working and this time I don't know why. Same exact symptoms, only this time the mode selector switch IS plugged in. Fuse is good. Relay clicks when I put the fuse in (with the key on). Resistor switch thing looks good, which may not be an indicator (but the fan doesn't work on high like they typically do when it fails), fan spins freely inside the housing. I don't get it because it did work, then I did nothing to it and it just stopped working. scratch

So installing the new U-joint on the passenger's side was an adventure. The inner shaft yoke was somehow undersized. The inside-to-inside dimension (where the C-clips seat) was ~2.130". It's supposed to be 2.188". So I exploded a new U-joint trying to squeeze it down to install it before I realized it wasn't going to go. On the up side, I was able to stretch the yoke back out with a 3/4" bolt and some strategically placed nuts, along with ample heating and letting it cool overnight. So the U-joint went back in pretty easy after that. Still though, I'm confused how the shaft was the wrong dimension. It doesn't appear to have suffered any trauma, and it would have to be a very precise, very hard hit on a rock or something to have done that. scratch

So in keeping with the theme, 2 steps forward, 1 back.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 4/4/2016, 10:23 am

I believe the press bent the ear on the shaft, it's not the first time that has happened.

Well that blows,,As far as the blower motor goes i would troubleshoot the resistor.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/4/2016, 10:32 am

Mark wrote:I believe the press bent the ear on the shaft, it's not the first time that has happened.

Well that blows,,As far as the blower motor goes i would troubleshoot the resistor.

I don't think it was my doing, since that u-joint came out easier than the other. I didn't have to load it as much with the press to get it apart. Additionally, there was a C-clip missing before I began disassembly. I think it was forced out when the yoke was deformed, and then it was able to lose all the needles from the bearing, thus the extreme slop in the joint.

How to test the resistor? It looks nearly new. In fact, I think I put it in shortly after I got the jeep. If I remember correctly (which is rare), the PO bought one and left it in the glovebox. In my experience, when they fail, the fan still works on the highest speed setting, but that's not the case here.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 4/4/2016, 10:46 am

As far as u joint goes the ears do bend easily,, just sayin,
I found this,
To test the blower motor switch 1st remove the heater-A/C control unit (which you have already done). Next turn the ignition switch to the "on" position and check for battery voltage at the fused ignition switch output circuit cavity of the heater-A/C mode control switch wire harness connector. If not OK then you will need to repair the open circuit to the fuseblock module. If OK then goto the next step.

Next step is to select any of the heater-A/C mode control positions except "off" to turn the system on. Check for battery voltage at the low blower motor driver circuit cavity of the heater-A/C mode control switch wire harness connector. If not OK then replace the switch. If OK then goto the next step.

Next step is to check for battery voltage at the low blower motor driver circuit cavity of the blower motor switch wire harness connector. If not OK then repair the open circuit to the heater-A/C mode control switch wire harnes connector. If OK then goto the next step.

Next step is to check for battery voltage at each of the remaining blower motor switch wire harness connector cavities as you move the switch to each blower motor speed position. Voltage should be present in each cavity at only one switch position. If not OK then replace the switch. If OK then move on to testing your blower motor resistor and/or relay.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/4/2016, 10:52 am

Is the word "cavity" referring to the female side of an electrical connector? It's a bit confusing to read without the car right in front of me. But thank you! I was kind of stuck without a clear idea of what to check next.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Mark on 4/4/2016, 11:01 am

Cavity=where something goes into. An empty fuse holder in fuse block is a cavity etc.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  cmartyj93 on 4/5/2016, 10:46 am

Mark wrote:As far as u joint goes the ears do bend easily,, just sayin,

They do bend easily in my experience. I did similar to what you did. put a big bolt/nut between ears and backed out the nut to stretch the ears very gradually. Next time I'm going to put a spacer between the ears before pressing the joint out.

I realize it wasn't the case for you but another common thing to happen is a needle bearing falls to the bottom of the cap preventing it from seating correctly. Makes the ears seem pinched but actually joint is too wide. I've had both happen.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/5/2016, 11:04 am

Yeah I've fought against a fallen needle before also on the driveshaft u-joint. That was.....fun? Yeah, fun. Let's go with that.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/7/2016, 8:49 am

So when I got this Jeep, it had a Sirius-only aftermarket head unit. Since I don't subscribe, it was useless to me. Shortly thereafter, I was gifted a stock head unit for free dollars. Works fine, but it had no mounting tabs. So it just sort of sat vaguely in the pocket in the dash.

I had a trim ring laying around since I-don't-know-when, so I cannibalized it







My limited research during this project shows maybe there were different mounting designs for different year TJs? Is that true?

Anyway, I also took this picture the other day because I thought it looked neat:

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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 4/7/2016, 9:41 am

That looks killer from that angle. Aside from their obvious offroad benefits the 'Cloaks give it a mean look. Not sure what your plans are for the rear, but I'd consider tossing some cheapo Smittybilt tube flares on (which in my opinion actually look good, a la Ryan's TJ) to complete the look all around plus give you a bit more clearance. I gather there are a bit more high priority items to address though so I won't hold it against you if your retort is "Go pound sand."


Last edited by THOOPY3 on 4/7/2016, 9:44 am; edited 2 times in total
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/7/2016, 9:43 am

Hahahaha you pretty much hit the nail on the head. It's kind of my "yeah, probably, I'll get to that someday" plan. After I take care of driveability, you know? To be fair, though, what's even the point of driving it if it doesn't look pretty? lol!
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 4/7/2016, 9:57 am

Well if I really cared about what I drove being pretty I'd never leave my house, haha. The YJ goes under the knife soon for rocker and floor repairs, and at the same time we'll be installing the MCE Fenders we won and I'm hoping we get the same sort of badass stance out of them (again in addition to the, you know, performance stuff). Right now it's sitting flare-less on 28" rollers so it's easier for the dude doing the repairs to work on it. Two words: rust bucket. And that's without removing the rocker guards that were installed years ago to cover the already atrocious levels of rot there. It's a miracle the seat hasn't fallen out during a club run.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  Rob Cote on 4/11/2016, 9:49 am

Small update with nothing to really show for it. I pulled vacuum on the A/C system and did a leakdown test which went well with no signs of leaking. So I charged it with refrigerant and added a half oz. of oil. Hard to tell how well it's working because it was only about 60F outside, but it seems to be blowing cold air. No reason it shouldn't be working. Anyway we'll see soon enough.

I've tried two different garages nearby to get an alignment and they both told me it can't be done (I have IRO OTK steering links if you all remember) because the links are "bent" and "need to be replaced". So I did it myself. The toe is 3/16" in the rear (IRO recommends 1/8") measured at the tire. It's close enough for me. The main thing is the steering wheel is centered and it tracks straight with no vibrations.

A while back I loosened up the rear factory tow hook. I think I smashed it on a rock or something. IDFK. It was only on there with one loose bolt so it was swinging all over the place and I think it was contributing to a noise so I cut that off. Don't need it.

Lastly, one of the rear body mount captive nuts is loose inside that boxed in section. Maybe someday I'll fix it, I dunno. Right now I can't be arsed. But what it means is I never put that body mount in. But it was sagging a little bit in that corner (maybe 1/4"? don't know, didn't measure) so I pried the body up and shoved it in there. It should hold as a spacer even though it's not holding the body down.

So...ya. Little detail stuffs. Have more parts on order. Stay tuned.
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Re: Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Post  THOOPY3 on 4/11/2016, 10:20 am

Rob Cote wrote:I've tried two different garages nearby to get an alignment and they both told me it can't be done (I have IRO OTK steering links if you all remember) because the links are "bent" and "need to be replaced". So I did it myself. The toe is 3/16" in the rear (IRO recommends 1/8") measured at the tire. It's close enough for me. The main thing is the steering wheel is centered and it tracks straight with no vibrations.

Are you talking about control arms here or the tie rod and drag link? Control arms will obviously have bends in them (depending on manufacturer) but the tie rod or drag link having bends doesn't sound right. I'm assuming the bend was a self-inflicted wounds during a run at some point? It sucks that they won't touch it but I'm not surprised; even though you won't do it and it's highly unlikely, they're worried you'll sue them in the event your steering completely falls off after they work on and you have a wreck because of it. I've actually read a few places that for lifted Jeeps with larger tires you actually want to be toe-in roughly 1/8" (front of tires closer together). That may be exactly what you're describing in your post but toe/caster/camber terminology always changes person-to-person.

EDIT: Just looked up the IRO kit, I now see what you're talking about with the bends so ignore my statement on that. Should have looked that up before commenting. Now it double sucks that they won't touch it even though that's how it's supposed to be.
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