TJ frame hole plugs-help save your frame

If you drive a TJ and you don't want all that wet sand/dirt just laying in the frame rotting it from the inside out then this is something that you should have.
The debris builds up just before the rear wheel and that's where the Tj frames start the self destruct process.

I have had them on my TJ for about 5 years and they really do help.
It's cheap and it really helps the longevity of the frame.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Frame-Hole-Cover-Plugs-Keep-Out-Mud-Jeep-Wrangler-TJ-1997-through-2006-/330679788826?hash=item4cfe0d251a:m:mlukJqpQBBNIJ02LLIymtag&vxp=mtr

Everyone should buy a set of these.  Hose out the frame, let it dry, eastwood internal frame spray then these caps = frame that will last forever

What about one drain hole? I've read mixed reviews but can we discuss it here? I think there should be a drain.

Definitely Rob - I drilled one drain hole (3/8?) on each side near the rear lower control arm mounts. Not too close to the mount, maybe a solid 7-9" away. Really helped with flushing the frame before I used the eastwoods

So I dunno if anyone's paying attention to my thread (not important) but you may not have seen my post that I had to replace the center frame sections (sorry if I'm repeating myself). Anyway. When I was doing that, obviously I had an opportunity to look inside the frame. I had internal-frame-coated last year or the year before. There as no evidence of that having been done. At least not in the center sections. I'm going to do it again anyways but I just want to throw that info out there. It's not a bulletproof solution. Since this is the second time I've done this repair, couple things to note. Autorust (manufacturer of the repair pieces) has made some changes to the product. They now include bolts with big fender washers, which is awesome because so often you can't reuse the OEM bolts, or simply don't want to. They've also added a drain hole. Approximately where you put yours, Nick. So that's three? in favor of drain holes. I'm thinking maybe I didn't let my frame dry long enough last time. It was mid-summer and I pressure washed through the holes, then flushed with a garden hose, then let it sit for about a week IIRC. Maybe this time I'll torch it to accelerate evaporation. Sorry, got a little off-topic here, but it's tangentially related.

That sucks the frame coating didn't work - what brand did you use? I would think a week of dry time is plenty long enough, I think I only waited 2-3 days and use an air compressor to help speed up the process. Was the inside of the frame really rusted already? Maybe the paint didn't adhere well and something like POR15 would have been better

I used Eastwood's product. It probably was already rusted, it's nearly impossible to tell. I wish I had a borescope, but even that would only let me see, not do anything about what I found. A frame internal sandblaster/pressure washer/dryer all-in-one combination would be ideal. Oh and it does an acetone rinse to remove any oils so the paint can adhere.

We are paying attention to your thread Rob,

I'm not against drain holes but I decided to plug every hole wether it was big or small no matter where on the frame it was.
There are more holes in the frame than you think.

They are on top of the frame in the front and rear where you can't really see, and without some investigation you won't know where they are.
The upper holes mostly let water in when your fording a stream or romping around in the water and the lower holes let in the debris that just sits there rotting it out.

The frame plugs i had posted also fit in the holes next to front and rear upper control arm brackets so that makes 8 plugs to plug the bigger of the holes.

Mark there's some small holes ~3/8" on the top outer corner of the frame, both sides, near the grille. How'd you plug those? Maybe RTV would work well or something like that. What about the front and rear, though? Big oddly-shaped rectangle plugs?

RTV on those holes where the crumple zone is in the front works well and on other really small holes too.

I plugged the other holes with rubber and plastic plugs that i aquired in the junk yard from a bunch of different cars.

Rob Cote wrote:Mark there's some small holes ~3/8" on the top outer corner of the frame, both sides, near the grille. How'd you plug those? Maybe RTV would work well or something like that. What about the front and rear, though? Big oddly-shaped rectangle plugs?

Those are speed holes! Don't plug those or you'll lose HP

I wouldn't be too concerned with plugging every hole because you'll never full enclose the TJ frame due to things like the control arm mounts and such.

I would just rinse it really well, let it dry and if there isn't big pieces of scaling rust on the inside hit it with some eastwoods. If there is scaling on the inside there isn't a ton you can do aside from cutting sections and repairing unfortunately.

I kind of went crazy with treating my frame..this thing is gonna last forever!

Tonellin wrote:this thing is gonna last forever!

I hope that you're right. But that's just what my frame looked like, and my treatment process was pretty much the same.

Rob Cote wrote:

Tonellin wrote:this thing is gonna last forever!

I hope that you're right. But that's just what my frame looked like, and my treatment process was pretty much the same.

Not what I wanted to hear..I already barely drive this thing in the winter because of the crazy amount of salt they use...

Also I can't recommend fluid film enough, these pics were taken at the same time during the 100+" of snow two winters ago

I'm also near the coast so I got that sweet airbone salt treatement, also. So that's probably a factor.

You can use the frame plugs at the front and rear upper control arm mounts also.
It's the same size hole