Hi I'm Rob

Hi Rob, the auto rust channel seems like the way to go.
I just repaired my tj and and should have done it that way.
Good luck with it.
Definitely better than trying to fab something yourself.

Crap it's been a month already!?? Anyway, I'm not dead guys! Just been going crazy. I got my frame repair sections in and did some preliminary prep work last weekend. I think the install is going to be pretty straightforward, now that I've seen what I'm working with. I'm actually pretty excited. I'm planning to do the body lift at the same time and finally get this thing back up and running. I might try and get started a few nights after work next week. WINTER IS COMING! EEEK I miss driving my Jeep.

Shiny new metal:



Fuck this thing. Had to sawzall the old bolts out because only rust was holding it in



Don't mind the gaping holes in the frame, it's only structural



Also, that's not mud. Latex paint. I saw a gallon in the middle of the road, had to smash it.

Happy with the frame channels so far? I might just get these instead of fabbing up my own stuff for my rear uppers.

Ryan M wrote:Happy with the frame channels so far? I might just get these instead of fabbing up my own stuff...

Yeah definitely! I haven't installed them yet, but I did a quick test fit. It fits nice and snug, which is great. It means the left-right position is fixed. Also, once you tap it all the way up into place, the up-down position is fixed. The instructions give good detail and a drawing to show how to locate the pieces front-to-rear. It'll hold itself in place, so you can just tack it in and stitch weld it all-around. The welds on it look great and the channels seem over all pretty solid quality. The nuts are already welded in place, too, so I don't have to F with nutserts.

Awesome! Those channels looks like they should be a great solid easy solution.

Btw, I found the 6th washer, ha ha. So if you're still using the T-case drop when you put the skid back on and want it, let me know!

AWESOME! I haven't put the TC drop in yet because when I went to install it, I found the frame rot. I was just looking at it the other day though, and wondering how I'd make that washer. I thought I understood how the transfer case drop worked. But now that the skid plate is off, I have no idea. I mean, I get where it installs and all that, but I don't get how it changes anything other than making the skid plate sit lower.

That's exactly it, it just makes it sit lower.

Since your transfer case rests on the skid, it lowers the transfer case as well, making an easier angle for the driveshaft. That's all it is.

That's what I thought, but when I took the skid plate out...the transfer case is still held in place. So...wtf? I thought that the skid plate held the transfer case up, but apparently not? Or is it just held in by the engine mounts now? So it takes up the flex from there and allows the assembly (engine/transmission/transfer case) to tip down in the back? That's my only guess. Then the other question I have is doesn't it make the rear driveshaft better while making the front worse? But the front is only loaded usually at low speeds so it's fine? Can someone confirm the assumptions I've been wondering about? Thaaaaaaaaaaaaanks

So rob- this fits OVER the existing frame rail?

Ryan M wrote:So rob- this fits OVER the existing frame rail?

Precisely. You have to cut out the bottom of the frame at LEAST for the nuts, so it can sit up tight against the bottom of the frame. But the rust should have taken care of most of that for you. I'm going to remove as much of the rot as possible though, just to stop it from spreading like the disgusting cancerous that it is. I'm not sure if you need to take out all the way to the sides in order to clear the welds inside the channel, but I'll report back with my findings when I get to this.

Rob Cote wrote:

Ryan M wrote:So rob- this fits OVER the existing frame rail?

Precisely. You have to cut out the bottom of the frame at LEAST for the nuts, so it can sit up tight against the bottom of the frame. But the rust should have taken care of most of that for you. I'm going to remove as much of the rot as possible though, just to stop it from spreading like the disgusting cancerous that it is. I'm not sure if you need to take out all the way to the sides in order to clear the welds inside the channel, but I'll report back with my findings when I get to this.

I'll be needing to do my rear upper control arm section, not the channels. Hoping it's the same for both.

Based solely on Quadratec's photo of that piece, I have no idea. But I wish you the best of luck.

Rob Cote wrote:That's what I thought, but when I took the skid plate out...the transfer case is still held in place. So...wtf? I thought that the skid plate held the transfer case up, but apparently not? Or is it just held in by the engine mounts now? So it takes up the flex from there and allows the assembly (engine/transmission/transfer case) to tip down in the back? That's my only guess. Then the other question I have is doesn't it make the rear driveshaft better while making the front worse? But the front is only loaded usually at low speeds so it's fine? Can someone confirm the assumptions I've been wondering about? Thaaaaaaaaaaaaanks

Well it's attached to the transmission, so if your transmission is supported, then you're technically supporting your t-case as well.

You do have some jackstands underneath supporting everything, right?

No. I did when I was removing the skid, but nothing was coming out after that. I figured the transmission was supported by some other means because, like I said, it didn't fall out when I took the skid out. Is it just on the engine mounts now?

Correct, it's just being supported by the engine mounts right now and it's putting a lot of stress on the connection both between the engine and transmission and the transmission and transfer case.

I would definitely get a couple jackstands under there as soon as you can!

One supporting the transmission and one under the tail-housing of the transfer case is the usual set-up.

Holy crap. I thought welding the repair sections in was going to be difficult. Turned out to be the easiest part of the whole process so far. Getting the engine to line up on the new mounts was a huge bitch. I finally got both cross bolts in last night and had a celebratory beer. I ran out of welding wire, so I have to pick some up tonight. I have about 8" of weld left to complete. Then squirt some paint on it, throw the skid plate up, and the rock slider on the driver's side and hit some mud! I had a dream I got to drive it last night. It was smooth as silk. We'll see if I can't make that dream come true

OH

FUCK

YEAH!

WWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

SO good to be back. When are we wheeling again?

ha ha ha ha, awesome! She's all set to go, then?

Hahaha, nice work man. Definitely something I'd not be looking forward to doing, but more than necessary when its time...

Pretty much! I didn't need that TC drop (the new frame sections sit slightly lower due to physics) but if you can meet up sometime so I can grab the other tapered washer you found that would be STELLAR! I have it bolted in now without that but...peace of mind.

I'm making a build thread in the other subforum because that's kinda what this is turning into. I have pictures. Keep your eyes peeled over there.

Rob...

I bought the rear frame sections... did you have a hard time with welding the sections? If I need to save the money I might just do it myself, but I don't know how comfortable I am with my welding abilities on the frame. Perhaps this is something you could help me with?

Hey Ryan, it really wasn't bad. Prep was the hard part, really. You're gonna want to remove your fuel tank for sure if you're working in the rear. I just wrapped my fuel lines with leather when I was working on the driver's side. The rear is fairly low stress, so that works in your favor. The welds won't be as critical. Do you have access to a welder? I'd be willing to help out, but I'd like a little time off from wrenching first