Hauler Rebuild

So, I don't really have a build thread on here because I didn't want to duplicate what I had started elsewhere (and besides, both vehicles probably won't be getting much more than oil changes for quite a while), so I offer this instead!



It's a 1998 J-93 "Hauler" Farm UTV built buy Kimball Products, a descendant of the famous Heald Haulers.



"Kimball Products Inc. introduces two new haulers: the J98 4×4 and the J93 4×2. Both use a Dana/Spicer limited-slip rear differential, a 16-hp OHV engine and an CVT transmission with three speed ranges. Other standard features include 12-inch × 25-inch high-flotation tires, a wide bench seat, hydraulic brakes, a ½-yard dump box, front bumper, headlights and tail light."

It was originally Dianna's work vehicle so she wouldn't have to use the Islander for *everything* when driving around camp, but recently it's stopped running well and dies under load and generally is just in some need of some loving.

We've always joked about repainting it and turning it into a mini-Islander and now that I've finally got my 6-bay garage, I have a place to work!  Best part?  Because I'm building it for camp, all my expenses are tax-deductible!

So we grabbed a trailer and pulled it home to set up in the garage:




First thing I did was trickle charge the battery because it had sat for *months*.  Took 2 days to finally charge back up.  

Started it, and it would stumble and run poorly. Starting fluid could keep it running if it wasn't under load, so I pulled the carburetor and did a quick clean and it ran better, but still didn't work. (Got me to the middle of the lawn, then died.   )

The engine is a (very dirty) 16hp Briggs and Stratton OHV V-twin (essentially the same motor as our old Honda Rebel, actually).



There's a manual choke that you have to lift up the bed to operate, but it was designed for a secondary cable to run below the seat, so I'd like to put that back in as well.

Unfortunately, repeated starting while flooding the engine shredded the nylon starter gear, so that's the first thing that needs to be replaced.

What it's supposed to look like:

What mine looks like:


Had to pull the engine to get to the starter bolts, but it's only connected by a fuel line, throttle cable, belt, and 4 bolts, so it's easy enough to get out.

Also replaced the air filter because it was *disgusting*. I should hopefully be picking up some spark plugs this afternoon as well, which I think should help with one cylinder firing more readily than the other.

I haven't checked compression yet because it runs so well at idle, but if a secondary carb cleaning doesn't fix it, I'll have to google the specs and hook up my gauge.

So that's where I'm starting at!

Plans are three-stage:

Stage 1: Just get the damn thing running, replace cables, filters, oil change, .

Stage 2:

• Pull engine and get 'er cleaned up, wirewheel flaking paint off frame and give it a fresh coat of rust-reformer and black enamel.  
  
• Pull off sheet-metal body panels, wirewheel clean, and prime.
  
• Fabricate new front 7-slot grill with the slots running the correct way.
  
• Fabricate a new, clean dash to replace the full-of-holes-and-broken-switches deal that's currently on there.
  
• Paint body panels in a similar blue to the Islander.  Not just a rattle-can job, I'd like to try and use my compressor and a spray gun and do a moderately real pain job.
  

Stage 3: Decorate/imitate

• It would be a bit expensive, but I'd love to grab two quarts of the same Monstaliner we used on the Islander and do the lift-bed and footwell. It'll be a workhorse, so I think I can justify it.
  
• Fabricate a "roll-cage".  This serves two purposes. 1) Makes it look more like the Islander and 2) Allows an easy place to make some sort of roof or shade for the copious amounts of sun and rain we have here.
  
• Sew together a bikini top
  
• Small Harbor Freight UTV winch
  
• Extra lights?
  
• Islander stickers?
  
• North Shore Jeeps sticker (note lack of question mark)  
  

Dianna is away working Summer Camp/NYLT/Jambo for 5 weeks out of the next 2 months, so hopefully I should be able to make some rapid progress in the beginning.  Should be fun!

Keep tuned, and I'll try and get some better detail pictures of things like the drivetrain and steering, etc.

Spent a bit more time on the Hauler this weekend.  It's been sitting so long that my main goal right now is just to get it running and back at camp until I've got time/a clean garage with which to work on it.

Pulled it out of the garage to give it a quick bath.


Pulled the engine to replace the starter/starter gear and clean it up.


Engine compartment was positively filthy.


I forgot to get "after" pictures, but it looked *way* better after some engine cleaner, brake cleaner, a hose and some rust reformer on various body panels.

Turns out the brush wires in the starter base were in *awful* condition, and I broke a stud trying to undo the nut that holds the negative cable, so I can't put it back together until I get the replacement part (which I ordered this morning) and can get the starter back together.




So my main victory of yesterday was rebuilding the seat, which, while it will eventually need to be reupholstered, my short-term goal was just getting it workable again, as the plywood had disintegrated and the rotating posts had come off.

First step, remove handles, pop off staples and remove upholstery from the board.


Then grabbed a random scrap of plywood, jigsawed it to the appropriate shape, stapled back on the fabric, installed the handles to the Hauler and the seat, and then added additional support.

Lookin'.....better.


Lastly, the wires for the rear light were just hanging down, like so.


A couple bullet connections and those should be operational once the battery goes back in.

Just impulse bought an accessory for it!



I love old busted CBs, and for $20 how could I pass it up?

Dianna would never let me put something that old and busted in her Islander, but I have always said she needs a CB on her camp vehicle.

....plus, it's got a PA so she can yell at little kids!

WTF? I had never even heard of an anti-afterfire solenoid, but I think that's what was causing the trouble.



I couldn't figure out when I wasn't getting fuel delivery even with good fuel pumpage and fresh gas in the carb and clean jets.

The only missing link was the passage between the bowl and the "suck-up jet" (for lack of a better term). There was a piston or something in it leading to some strange pipe.





I looked it up, and apparently that's a solendoid.



When I pulled it out, though, the silicone tip fell off, which makes me think it had been falling off for a bit and, even though the solenoid plunger retracted, the tip was getting stuck in the passage.

I f'ed up the solenoid in the process of reassembly, though, so I'll have to wait to pick up a new one before I'll know if it was the cause for sure.

CB/PA is installed and the Hauler is back at camp!

Now I have a chance to organize the garage so I can start on stage 2!

Fantastic project Geoff! It looks awesome!

Ohhhhh and if you are thinking about adding some light to this beast, i would go with a rigid industries setup! That would be killer!

Oh, good call!

I hadn't even though much about lighting yet, but it's probably one of the more practical short-terms needs. I could probably convince Dianna to grab some....

Any suggestions on LEDs that would throw lots of light, but wouldn't cost a ton? (Directional would also be a plus)

CrawlingForward wrote:Oh, good call!

I hadn't even though much about lighting yet, but it's probably one of the more practical short-terms needs.  I could probably convince Dianna to grab some....

Any suggestions on LEDs that would throw lots of light, but wouldn't cost a ton? (Directional would also be a plus)

Rigid Duallys. $199, 2x2 LED configuration, 1500 lumens each, available in flood, spot, diffused, etc. That's where my money would be. Waterproof, shatterproof, virtually indestructable.


This is all the proof I'd need:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wuIU-Mg0EMM

Yeah, I'm very torn between philosophies on the lighting.

Here's the set of considerations:
This stays offroad, so safety is not a concern, but the lights *will* be used...frequently.
Since it's camp's vehicle, anything I spend on it is tax deductible at the end of the year. However, if I deduct it, it means I can't steal if off of it later if we move or Dianna leaves the job.

So I looked at the Rigid Lights and couldn't figure out where you were finding these prices. I didn't realize that if you order them as a pair you save a bit.

Now I just need Dianna to complain about how dark it is while using it, so it can be her idea... 

So I was about to pull the trigger on the Rigid Industry ones, but then I get a lecture last night on spending too much, ha ha.

So while I'll probably end up getting the Duallys for my YJ at some point (it needs more lighting), I decided to go cheaper on the hauler because I really need to make these tax deductible and it would *kill* me to see such good lights on there that I'd never use and I'd have to give up if we move, ha ha

So, I had to get something on Amazon anyhow and poked around and found a really good deal on some 27w LEDs that had good reviews.  Originally marked at 80, they were down to 21, so I figured for that kind of money, what do I have to lose?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZGBLNW/ref=ox_ya_os_product


I also set up a Craigslist alert for myself for ATV winches, so we'll see if anything pans out there.

Next step I think (once the garage is cleaned out) will be fabricating a new grill and a "roll cage" so keep Dianna out of the sun and the rain.

Any thoughts on how to make that?

Tube seems like it would be excessively heavy for something non-structural (although I will have access to a welder and a buddy who wants to practice for a motorcycle build he's doing). I thought of PVC for a second, but that doesn't seem like it would be strong enough. What about PVC filled with Great Stuff Insulation Foam for rigidity? It's just being used for a roof.

I wonder if there's a golf cart roof laying around camp I could modify.....

Ok, I really need to stop impulse purchasing, ha ha

Harbor Freight was having a sale on their UTV winch for only $50, but I snatched it and a winch plate for another $4 (literally, $4. Why do Jeep ones cost like $60?)



2000 Lb. Electric ATV/UTV Winch With Automatic Load-Holding Brake

It's supposed to arrive Thursday and my lights should arrive Friday, so depending on whether I finish putting up the barbed wire fence, I may be able to throw them both on this weekend.  Dianna's got a training anyhow, so I might actually do it early Saturday so she can use it.

Hmmm, just thought....perhaps I should take some measurements of the grill this weekend as well.

Also spent some time trying to figure out a rollcage and  had decided it's pretty much impossible.  

....right up until trying to mock up *why* to post.

I can find spots to place the front of the cage (probably on the fenders) but the rear of the cage is the difficult spot.  The seat overlaps the frame by a good foot on either side and rotates forward.  The dump bed gets in the way of mounting it further back.  The only solution I can think of would be to mount it outside of the dump bed by bolting and extension from the frame that would somehow be supported by an angled piece from below.





But, as I was sketching these up, I realized how cool it would be to extend the rack back so it mimicked the actual rack on Dianna's Jeep.



If I install a bar across the frame above the wheels, it'll give me a strong enough mounting point for it, plus then I can add a roof to protect the driver from sun, rain, etc.

Additionally, by mimicking the 'fastback' style of the original (which ironically, is not needed, but is actually a hindrance on the original and won't let me drop the top), I can build it so the dump bed will actually still be functional.

If I can junkyard a smaller basket off something else, I should be able to just add the legs.

Hmmmmmm......

lol that video was hilarious  

Ok, so stuff's been a little crazy around our house this month due to suddenly having 9 dogs (long story), so I haven't updated in a bit, but I got a bunch of stuff done a while ago and took and uploaded pictures, but never got a chance to post them here.

First off, (oh wow, it *has* been a while) I wired in the all the necessary wiring/relays, switches for the lights. It's pretty awesome that electrical projects used to scare the crap out of me, but after doing 2 or 3 this year, I totally get it and wiring in relays with switched power and united grounds doesn't even phase me now.

Also wired in the power and the switch for the winch. Took a little bit of jerry-rigging to get everything plumbed out of the way, but it's done. It could probably be improved, though.

Mounting the winch and the lights was a PITA, though. The spots where it needed to be mounted involved drilling holes through both sides of the square tube steel bumper and getting new hardware that would let me through-bolt it. Took a bit of lining up and "adjusting" holes, but eventually got everything on!



These cheap little lights are *awsome*. Definitely not as durable as the Rigids (they already have a small crack in the front lense), but *plenty* bright.

Comparison with current headlights:


Lighting up pitch-black shop:


I even used an illuminated switch to make sure they don't get left on!

(You can see the winch remote in the same glove box as the CB radio)

Close-up of mounted winch:


Cable was very twisted and kinked when I first unrolled it, but it was cheap and only like $50, but we just re-spooled it and called it a day.


Also replaced the choke cable so I didn't have to keep lifting the dump bed after getting it started.


Cable routing (it was much longer than needed) and cable/non-cabled connection:




It doesn't work perfectly, as it has trouble pushing back it, but if you slap it with your palm instead of pushing, it does the trick. Good enough for now.

And lastly, a pretty picture now that it's back to being the camp workhorse:

Oh, and I grabbed a picture of the shifter, just because there was no reference for it yet.



You can see it has Low, Medium, High, Neutral and Reverse. That just shifts the gearing in the transaxle and the the CVT connecting to the engine engages the belt.



The torque-sensing pulley, unfortunately, is getting pretty cruddy with age and sometimes gets stuck. This means it doesn't throw out to engage the belt and you sit there with the engine roaring and not going anywhere.

So next step will probably be taking apart that pulley and cleaning it up in hopes of alleviating that issue. Possibly replacing. We'll see.

So haven't updated in a while, because not a whole lot's been done and it's just been sitting there because it's too bumpy of a ride for my very pregnant wife.

But I was out at camp this past weekend and pulled it out and dusted her off!

Very surprisingly, considering how temperamental she's been in the past, she started with only 4 turns of the key after sitting for 4 months or so.

After that I used fix-a-flat to fill up one of the perpetually leaky tires and then took her on a good hour long trip along camp bouncing along all the back-yards and she performed wonderfully.

The craziest part is that the centrifugal clutch worked almost perfectly.  I've never heard of anything thatt *un*sticks itself after 4 months.  I was going to take it apart and clean it, but I felt that I should leave well enough alone.

Next, I adjusted the valve clearances.  Something that I had been terrified to do and turned out to be remarkably simple.  Sorry, no pictures, but it basically amounts to pull off cover, undo snug bolts, adjust nut until feeler gauge slightly catches, tighten snug bolt, put the cover back on.  Done.

One side was a little loose, but good.  The other was *super* tight, which I'm guessing might have been the reason it was smoking, stumbling a bit sometimes, and needing lots of choke.  After being adjusted, I got an initial *huge* cloud of smoke (burning carbon deposits and needing to be off choke?) and then it started running like a dream and finally didn't need to constantly adjust the choke to keep it running!

Best of all, I just got carte blance approval to do whatever is needed to get the Hauler running like new.  And I don't even have to pay for it!

So next up will probably be a new clutch and steering linkage (the original is pretty badly bent.  It also needed tightening up and that fixed most of the issue, but a new linkage would be better!)

This site apparently has a number where you can call to order parts from:
http://www.powertecparts.com/

If I recall correctly, it's run by the old owner of the company.

EDIT: Called at lunch today and it *is* the original guy. Had a nice chat with him and he let me know how to fix the clutch so I wouldn't have to replace it, and that the steering linkage is supposed to have that bend, so I didn't need to purchase anything!

How often do you get to talk to the guy who's company *built* your toy, get advice on how to fix something, and get to send him a link to your build thread. How cool is that?!