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TJ Frame Section Installations

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Andrew Miller
Ryan McKee
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Post  Ryan McKee 3/9/2015, 2:07 pm

Hey guys-

Wanted to get a topic started on this because I know there are a handful of people who have had sections of their TJ frames replaced. I'm going to (unfortunately) need to replace my center frame rail section in the next month or so. I had patched it a few years ago and it has now begun losing its battle.

What have you spent for which sections? Parts and installations, who did it, etc. Let's get this info together 'cause I know there are more people who will need this in the future!

OK GO!
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Post  bigmike 3/9/2015, 2:35 pm

Honestly ryan I personally would do this with you but a 220 welder is in needed for penitration I always have had the luxury to use a friends shop mike's auto body in Woburn. I did my rear upper spring mounts there. And also there is a shop a block away if he can't they are going to charge me 400 for the tub mounts.my tub is rotting under my rockers
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Post  bigmike 3/9/2015, 2:41 pm

And also admiral metal is also in Woburn if your looking for steel or scrap pieces to use for roll cages, bumpers,etc
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Post  CrawlingForward 3/9/2015, 2:47 pm

How thick is the frame, btw? Quarter inch?
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Post  Ryan McKee 3/9/2015, 4:16 pm

CrawlingForward wrote:How thick is the frame, btw?  Quarter inch?


Yeah that sounds right. Maybe 3/8".
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Post  Ryan McKee 3/9/2015, 4:35 pm

I paid $250 for my upper rear frame sections in 2013 and welded them with a club guy named Duncan (ArcticRubi) in his garage. The plasma cutter worked wonders vs a cut off wheel and grinder, and total expenses were probably $400 in total.

The middle section is a bit more daunting... but Mike I'd definitely take you up on the help if we had a 220! I've got a 140 but that won't do? I know it's rated for 1/4
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Post  CrawlingForward 3/9/2015, 5:09 pm

Ryan M wrote:I paid $250 for my upper rear frame sections in 2013 and welded them with a club guy named Duncan (ArcticRubi) in his garage. The plasma cutter worked wonders vs a cut off wheel and grinder, and total expenses were probably $400 in total.

The middle section is a bit more daunting... but Mike I'd definitely take you up on the help if we had a 220! I've got a 140 but that won't do? I know it's rated for 1/4

Especially if you use flux core instead of straight mig, the slightly hotter process should give you enough edge on 140.

(Look at me saying weld-y stuff now!)

Wish I was closer. Finally broke down and got a 120/230 machine. Specifically portable too.

What machine are you currently running? With everything you do, it might be time to invest in a beefier machine.
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Post  desertzj 3/9/2015, 7:13 pm

I'd say get in touch with Scott cairns from central mass offroad. He seems well priced and guarantees his work. I've seen some of his work and he's a pro. I have to have the front of my frame rales done and body mounts in the center section of the tub on both sides done. Where I'll be going.
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Post  bigmike 3/9/2015, 7:30 pm

Yup 1/4 inch we can get some rectangular tubing to match weld that in and get the tub mounts from UCF.we can also drill out the tube for nutserts and bolt it back up and paint and done
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Post  bigmike 3/9/2015, 7:33 pm

Sounds easy right I'm sure it's far more involved but sign me up if you do decide to do it yourself I'm all in. As for the welder you have information it's rated for it we can definitely weld a little extra steel over the weld
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Post  Ryan McKee 3/9/2015, 7:54 pm

CrawlingForward wrote:
What machine are you currently running?  With everything you do, it might be time to invest in a beefier machine.


I wish you lived closer too.

Currently a Hobart 140 ... and it's currently time to invest in a condo, not a welder ;-)
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Post  Andrew Miller 3/9/2015, 9:49 pm

I know it's out of your way and is going to cost some money, but T&R Customs is the place to go. They do quality work, they are an A+ shop with quality mechanics, and their prices are pretty reasonable. They build their own frame sections as you saw on my TJ. Just my 2 cents.

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Post  Rob Cote 3/10/2015, 8:08 am

I did the center section on mine both sides because the nuts broke free inside. I drove it for a year and a half or so? after the repair, and wheeled it over MaBell and OFR with no issues. It was welded with a 110V Lincoln for whatever that's worth. I'm not a professional at all.

I'm surprised that people are in agreement that the material thickness is 1/4". That seems really thick compared to my memory of the job. I'd say it's 1/8 or 3/16" max. But I could be wrong.
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Post  Mark 3/10/2015, 10:31 am

I had welded in some 3/16" patches on Carols frame with my 110 volt 130 amp welder and it came out just fine.
3/16" is pretty much MAX thickness the welder can handle though.
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Post  bigmike 3/10/2015, 2:17 pm

Ryan regardless of what you decide to do I'm around to help you out and which roll cage do you have. Now that the little one is on the way
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Post  mrj42290 3/25/2015, 8:54 am

I brought mine to Payne's Welding in Abington. I only had a small section replaced near the left rear tire behind the LCA bracket. They said they do about 3-4 Jeeps a week and up to 50 during the summer months. They cleaned out the entire frame and applied oil to prevent further damage. They found a couple other quick things while they were going through the frame and didn't charge me anything extra. Seemed like good guys.. only charged $150 for the whole thing and called me every few hours to keep me updated.
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