05 RME Slow Build

I fixed the melted Evap line last night in preparation for the remainder of the build. If I am off tomorrow, I will try to do the BL/MML/Novak. I picked up a dremel, so cutting the bolts down for the MML shouldn't be an issue now.

dongalonga wrote:I fixed the melted Evap line last night in preparation for the remainder of the build. If I am off tomorrow, I will try to do the BL/MML/Novak. I picked up a dremel, so cutting the bolts down for the MML shouldn't be an issue now.

Just a quick tip as I did a MML on mine a couple of weeks ago. On the drivers side you will need to remove the mount bracket from the motor to get the bolt out if you have the AC unit still on the motor. Its a real pain in the butt, all you have to do is install the bolt from the rear and you'll be all set.

Yeah I read that in the install instructions from Savvy. The MML is going to be a PITA. Im starting with the brakelines then MML, etc.

The MML is really not bad at all. Did it myself in a couple hours.

janesy wrote:The MML is really not bad at all. Did it myself in a couple hours.

It depends on the year model, on an 05 the AC compressor is in the way, earlier models had it mounted up top somewhere. It still only took me a couple of hours, but was a bit of a pain. I was doing the 1.25 BL at the same time so the fun factor was just that much more hehehe.

dongalonga wrote:One of the many avenues my money travels down. Now back to the Jeep build.

I like shooting on someone elses dime .. Leaves more money for the Jeep !

Racer38 wrote:

janesy wrote:The MML is really not bad at all. Did it myself in a couple hours.

It depends on the year model, on an 05 the AC compressor is in the way, earlier models had it mounted up top somewhere. It still only took me a couple of hours, but was a bit of a pain. I was doing the 1.25 BL at the same time so the fun factor was just that much more hehehe.

Same deal with mine, AC was in the way But as you said just take the whole bracket out and then reinstall the bolt from the other side. And I also did the BL at the same time, which was super easy. Maybe 1/2 hour for that.

I was actually thinking about buying the MML/BL kit while I've got the fenders off and am installing the TNTs just so I have complete access to the engine bay.

Got a late start today. Did the front brake lines for now. I will do the rear line when I do the sway bar bushings. I just don't have enough hours in the day.

Here is the section of the Evap line that was replaced.

Is anyone available to give me a hand next Monday, Tuesday, or Wednesday?

MML/BL/Novak are done. Now I can't shift into 2nd, 4th, 6th, or Reverse. I am sure this will be resolved when I remove the TC drop. Pics to follow.

dongalonga wrote:Now I can't shift into 2nd, 4th, 6th, or Reverse. I am sure this will be resolved when I remove the TC drop. Pics to follow.

It will. The problem now is that the front end of the drivetrain is elevated an inch up, and the back end is lowered another inch with the TC drop. Instead of being flat, or somewhat close to flat all the way across, the transmission is sloped on a downward angle which is what is preventing you from shifting into the gears that are on the down side of the tranny gear box.

Quick story - about a year after I got my Jeep I was wheeling alone in Wakefield (yes, Wakefield, on a trail I didn't know I shouldn't have been on) and I came down on a rock pretty hard. My 3" lift had come with a TC drop, and some cheap grade 5 bolts. When I hit the rock, it proceeded to rip out the bolts from the frame, and my TC skid was held on by only 3 bolts on the passengers side. The driver's side was completely broken free, and was hanging 4-5 inches down. I had to limp home using only 1st, 3rd, and 5th. The radiator fan chewed up the fan shroud because of the angle it was at. It was a pretty rough time.

So anyway, that's why. Ditch that TC drop and you'll be all set! Do you already have a new driveshaft ready to go?

dongalonga wrote:MML/BL/Novak are done. Now I can't shift into 2nd, 4th, 6th, or Reverse. I am sure this will be resolved when I remove the TC drop. Pics to follow.

Nice! How was the Novak to install? That'll be soon on my list.

As far as the shifting, removing the TC drop should fix that issue like you said. Good luck.

[quote="janesy"]

dongalonga wrote:
Nice! How was the Novak to install? That'll be soon on my list.

Relatively easy and SO worth the money. 2003x and I did mine in about an hour. The only problematic point is one bolt on top of the transfer case that is almost impossible to get to, let alone ratchet. I think I had to use an open ended wrench to back it out, and it's a very long bolt

Just finished up. The Tc drop is out and it shift fine as expected. I had to adjust my pinion angle as well. I will post pics tonight. I'm not sure about the pinion angle but I'm sure it's close.

Savvy MML


Cut down MM Stud to accept new longer studs


Had to clearance this bolt head to reach the MM bolt/nut


MML/BL/Novak/Removed TC drop Complete!


Pinion Angle

Next up is MonstaLiner. I am planning on stripping the interior Sunday night. I should be applying on Monday. Pics to follow.

According to the picture that you posted of your drive shaft angle,
Your differential yoke angle is wrong compared to your transfer case slip yoke angle
- FOR THE TYPE OF DRIVESHAFT THAT YOU HAVE.
If you had a CV style drive shaft, then what you did would be right.

The picture seems to show that you have your differential yoke lined up square with the rear of the drive shaft
and transfer case yoke is on an angle where it meets the driveshaft. (This is Wrong for your style of drive shaft)
The way that you have it, you will be going through U-joints faster than you need to and possibly vibrating also, especially under load.
For type of driveshaft that you have, the transfer case slip yoke and the differential yoke should be at the same angle (as each other) (on the same plane)
(( with about 3/4 of a tank of fuel and all of your usual gear loaded into the jeep.))

Yours should look like the SECOND Picture down.
[You will never get it to look like the fist picture because of the setup that you have]
( and it should be done on flat ground with a cheap angle guage. ($10 or less Home Depot/ Lowes

Not that i don't have anyhing else to do, but I'm just trying to help as I have been there and done that.

No, i am not trying to to bust your balls.

(You have to angle differential down at yoke to achieve proper parallell angle!!)

http://www.hotspotoutdoors.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2667697/Largest_tires

Thanks for the heads up. Luckily no vibes, but I will get it fixed ASAP. I won't be installing the armor for at least a few weeks, so I don't want to blow a UJoint.

Got some odds and ends done/started today. Sway bar disco retainers, rear sway bar bushings, started painting my armor.

This is turning into one hell of a rig my friend.

Thanks Ryan. It has been a pretty quick transformation. Though at times it hasn't felt that way. Once the Savvy UA, SYE, and DS are done I will be getting some GenRight Rockers.

Got a couple of the brackets painted as well.

Got some wheeling in today:

Almost made it!







Cleaning time

Surprise!


Top and Doors on before hitting the carwash:

What part of NH did you end up at yesterday? Was it an ENH run?

It was an ENH member's BDay run. We were in the Henniker area.

Todays Jeeping: Re-bled brakes due to spongyness, oil change, greased everything, retorqued rear diff cover due to slight weep.