Rob's 97, nothing crazy

Hahahaha yeah what'd that take you to look up like 2 mins? Too bad the shop manager(s) couldn't spare that much time. I explained to both shops that the links were aftermarket and so it will be a little different than stock but fear not because the links have adjustment built in. The first one I didn't argue with, they were like the links are bent and need to be replaced then we can align it. I was just like



I'll come pick it up. But in the back of my head I was like...maaaaybe?? So I looked and obviously there was no damage. So whatever. The second shop, I explained to them that the previous shop wouldn't do it because they thought they were bent. I explained that they are in fact bent, and they are supposed to be that way. I mean, if you look at the parts it's obvious that the bends are intentional; they're symmentrical, the paint is not chipped at the bends, they're like 1" solid steel (I mean, can you imagine the trauma it would take to bend the drag link such as it is?!?). So the aligner-guy was called and explained to the situation. Yup yup everything is fine no problem. They call me back around the time it was supposed to be completed. "Come pick it up, we can't align it because the parts are broken."

Any luck with the north shore performance place we talked about?

Ryan McKee wrote:Any luck with the north shore performance place we talked about?

Not yet. I'm bringing the Audi in there tomorrow so when I speak with them I'm planning to ask about Jeep alignment and control arm adjustment and let you know.

WoW, all you wanted is an alignment, what part of it's not bent don't they get.
When I worked at the jeep shop in Hampstead NH we had our alignments done at Hampstead garage.

We installed all kinds of different steering setups plus lifted them and they did the alignments no problem.

If anyone is in the market, Autobahn Perforrmance Inc. in Peabody is willing to do an alignment with "adjustable everything" (i.e.- control arms, track bars, etc) for about $200.

I received a Novak transfer case shifter yesterday, so I ordered frame center sections today because my Jeep hates me. The nuts spun when I tried to drop the skid plate last night.

Oh boy another set back, i feel for you as iv'e been there before on my jeep with the old frame.

Good info on the alignment shop by the way, maybe post it in the vendor section ?

Good call. Will do. It's annoying. In the heat of the moment I was actually vocalized that maybe it's time to throw in the towel. Mandy talked me down. I've done this job before so...whatever. Also, Topher has offered some assistance which will be awesome. So it shouldn't be too bad.

Keep a positive mindset and you'll be fine and thats great that Topher offered up some assistance

Having some trouble with the CB. Does anyone have a steel whip antenna or is everyone here running a Firestik?

I'm thinking it's an issue inside the transceiver, but I'll spell out my symptoms because someone probably knows more about this than I do. Cobra 29 LX, 18ft coax with a 5ft Firestik. Power and ground connections are good. Radio self-diagnostics pass. I can receive at least 3 miles out, probably farther. I can transmit about 100 yards. I attempted to tune the antenna using the built-in SWR meter as well as an external meter, with ~bout the same results. SWR is approx 1.1:1 across all channels, irrespective of antenna tip adjustment. I can screw it in all the way, half way, take it out, doesn't matter. The SWR doesn't change.

Anyone?

Found this, i'll post it ultimate cb info thread.  

 http://www.wearecb.com/troubleshooting-cb-radios.html

Huge thanks again to Topher for the help. He sliced the crusty parts off my frame and I welded in new center sections.

Rob Cote wrote:Huge thanks again to Topher for the help. He sliced the crusty parts off my frame and I welded in new center sections.

Helping one another is what being a club is all about (wheeling too) you make new friends, learn a little something, and go on wheeling adventures.

Definitely agree with that sentiment Mark. Also got me motivated to work on an easy project. Something I've had waiting in the wings for quite some time. It's just constantly been usurped by higher-priority things. Just had to drill a couple holes and solder a few connections:





My favorite part is that they're on the OEM fog switch.

New winch cable because apparently some people are not down with tetanus

Novak cable transfer case shifter installed and I put some self-etching primer on the frame sections. Will paint inside and out tonight, hopefully.

Frame is painted. New motor oil (10W30) in the transmission and ATF+4 in the transfer case. I pulled shocks to take measurements and got some new ones on order. As a result, I have a set of shocks for sale for a ~3-5" lift. I think they're made by Black Diamond, IIRC. Relatively low miles. Cheap! They'll probably just get thrown out if no one is interested.

What are you getting for shocks.

Fox Performance series

I have read some good reviews on those shocks, i hope they work out for you.

New hotness



Went in without a fuss. The white ones are for sale cheeep. Still waiting on the fronts, but they should be in by the end of the week. Don't really have much to say about them at this point other than they look and feel well made. They were impossible to compress by hand, so I used the jack to put the bottom bolt through.

Anyway, it got me to thinking. I'm going to make a different thread for discussion in the tech forum regarding boots or no boots because I think there's a lot of theories for both sides, but I'm interested in actual evidence.

And I also want to take a moment to share some info. These shocks were installed...hang on *checks back in this thread*....I dunno. Sometime shortly (maybe?) before this week of last year? It was after 4/24/14 and before 5/27/15. Whatever, doesn't matter that much. The point is, when I put them in approximately a year-ish ago, I chased all the threads and applied anti-seize. I've been doing it for a while now with every bolt or nut that I remove. This is the first time I've removed something that's gotten the treatement. DO IT. I don't want to say that the stuff came out "easy", buuuut...nothing broke! So that's significant. Actually it was pretty straightforward except for one upper bolt was a little sticky. 13mm socket was slipping, so I tapped on a 1/2" and it came out, that was honestly the only "hard" part about it. So yes. Anti-seize all the things.

I could probably use the rears if you feel like separating..both of my rears are crunched from rock encounters.

Also no boots and anti seize everything! Also fluid film everything not anti seized

I put new shocks on my daily driver 2wd ranger (w/o boots) less than a year ago and the shafts are rusted pretty bad, and i use it basically every day.
I have had boots on the 5100's on my tj for 6 years or so now, and they do keep abrasive dirt/dust/crud off the shafts/seals and the shafts are like new.
I used a hole punch for paper and punched holes in bottom of the boots, it lets air in and drains water etc out.
We did this in jeep shop on 99% of the lifts we installed and never had issues.

Anti-seize and loctite are your best friends,,lol

OK lets hear more 02 cents about this.

Rob Cote wrote:Actually it was pretty straightforward except for one upper bolt was a little sticky. 13mm socket was slipping, so I tapped on a 1/2" and it came out, that was honestly the only "hard" part about it.

Still waiting for Nick to comment on this since metric bolts and sockets are his automotive equivalent to Bigfoot, the Loch Ness Monster, or '98 ZJs with the 5.9.

THOOPY3 wrote:

Rob Cote wrote:Actually it was pretty straightforward except for one upper bolt was a little sticky. 13mm socket was slipping, so I tapped on a 1/2" and it came out, that was honestly the only "hard" part about it.

Still waiting for Nick to comment on this since metric bolts and sockets are his automotive equivalent to Bigfoot, the Loch Ness Monster, or '98 ZJs with the 5.9.

I had to google 'what is a metric socket'

Turns out it's those things I have sitting on my workbench being used as a paper weight to hold down service manuals. Who knew people actually used them to work on cars

But my Jeep is mostly metric?