Transfer Case bolts

Does anyone know the size, thread count, length, and head size of the transfer case bolts? I need to get something fast before I ruin both my axles. Thanks for the help everyone.

What do you mean by transfer case bolts? a bit more specific description would help.

Ditto. You mention the transfer case and then your axles?

The bolts to the plate that holds the transfer case and tranie up which bolts to the frame or the cross member for both.

Need to lower the transfer case so I can bring the drive shafts closer to factory so I don't ruin the axle seals etc.

Oh, so the trans/skid plate bolts? The ones that bolt to the frame?

You're looking to do a transfer case drop, then?

A lot of guys just throw a couple of washers between the skid plate and the frame and then throw the bolts back in.

They also made Transfer Case Drop kits that a lot of us might have just lying around. If you do a quick post in the "wanted" section or on Craigslist, you can probably source one for cheap.

I don't have any info on the size if you need to replace them, but if you're only going down a little bit, you might be able to reuse the originals.

The factory bolts are grade 8, 1/2". Available at Depot. Don't remember coarse or fine though.

Sounds like you want a transfer case drop, to save your u-joints typically, not axle seals.

1/2 x 13 in coarse on older tjs i believe metric on newer tjs, not positive but pretty sure. 03-06 metric

Mark wrote:1/2 x 13 in coarse on older tjs i believe metric on newer tjs, not positive but pretty sure. 03-06 metric

They are 1/2 X 13 X 2" . Picked up 6 only 2.5" long that will give me enough for the drop down.
Thanks for the help and hope to have it finishd ed before the BBQ.

It may go easier if you loosen the 4 trans mount nuts and do your thing with bolts and spacers on the skid plate and then tighten 4 t mount bolts last after skid is tight.
It will help remove pre load on trans mount.
Trans mount holes are slotted
Don't forget to check transfer case linkage when done it may need to be adjusted they usually do after drop is done.
Usually a t case linkage drop bracket is needed when dropping skid.
Good luck.

I got the bolts and washers now all I need is some help in doing the job as laying on my back is difficult when I stay there more then 5 min at a time. The final shock and rear track bar are going in today as the fuel tank needed to be dropped an the bolts burned out. Thanks to everyone who helped me with the transfer case bolts and for anyone who will help me drop it. Will do the same for all even though I'm half cripples due to a serious neck problem.

Where are you and when will you be there?
Are the old t case bolts out at this time. Any broken or stripped bolts?

Mark wrote:Where are you and when will you be there?
Are the old t case bolts out at this time. Any broken or stripped bolts?

I live in Methuen. I'll be at the BBQ Sunday. The clutch was done in mid March so the bolts may be tight but they should come off without breaking. Have to go bac to the dealer Monday for the rear track bar as the bolts that hold it in need to be cut off and I neded new bolts. I also have a floor jack and can do one side at a time. I'll bring the bolts with me Sunday along with the washers.
Thanks.

White Buffalo wrote:

Mark wrote:Where are you and when will you be there?
Are the old t case bolts out at this time. Any broken or stripped bolts?

I live in Methuen. I'll be at the BBQ Sunday. The clutch was done in mid March so the bolts may be tight but they should come off without breaking. Have to go bac to the dealer Monday for the rear track bar as the bolts that hold it in need to be cut off and I neded new bolts. I also have a floor jack and can do one side at a time. I'll bring the bolts with me Sunday along with the washers.
Thanks.

Rear track bar bolts are 10.9 metric M10x1.5x75 and are available at Lowes (NOT DEPOT) for $1.77 each.

Cut the heads off of the bolts with a sawzall.

I don't have a good sawzall and blades to begin with and both bolts have to come out as well as the piece that holds the bolts in which both bolts are frozen in place. the frame is in real good shape but all the bolt connections are/were rusted so bad in place that when I went to take the left rear shock bolts out one came out hard the other one snapped at the head and had to drill a hole to get another bolt and nut to hold the shock up. The passenger side had to be torched so they could loosen them to get them out. Hell took the mechanic 4 hrs to heat and crank the bolts for the T-case mount. That's how rusted they were and 2 cans of PB blaster on top of that.
So that's where I stand for now. At least a buddy of mine helped with the lift but we ran out of time for the rest and even he said take it to the dealer for the rear shocks and the rear track bar and he knows what he is doing being a mechanic/body guy since he was 12. See you all Sunday!