Just wanted to get some info...

Just curious about a few things that I've been looking at and wanted to know other's opinions.

What kind of U-joints would you recommend?

Has any one upgraded their shifter linkage after installing a lift?

Has anyone had to chage their brake calibers, pads? If so, what did you replace them with?

Any and all info would help. I am looking at replacing my front axel u-joints and will need some help. I'll place that ad in the "Member Wrenching schedule" when its time.

As always, thanks!

Derrell

I'M running the ALLOY USA X JOINTS they have a grease fitting on each bearing cap, they are heavy duty and you can flush the grease out after going through water etc.
http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-38464/Alloy-USA--dsh--Heavy/Detail

http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-23788/ALLOY-USA-Jeep-Wrangler/Detail

Derrell, you need to install the axle tube seals at the same time,,, they are a piece of cake to install and you should have them.
They keep out all of the crap that ruins the inner seals!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9Llf1bPyIs
T CASE shift cable assy install

Mark,

For whatever it's worth, I take my u-joints to a place in Wakefield MA that presses them for $25 (that was for both axle shafts, I brought my joints in myself). As far as brakes, absolutely! Rotors and pads on TJs are easy as pie, I still use the Advance Auto Wearever Gold stuff. The transfer case shifter is a common problem with lifted Jeeps, and many would recommend the NOVAK shifter that is available online from Savvy and NOVAK directly. It replaces the bushings with a cable shifter instead.

You can never go wrong with spicer u-joints, my preference is for greasable. The grease in the sealed units always seems to turn to dust almost immediately for me, so I like to be able to keep fresh grease in them.

Ryan, if you're referring to Montrose Machine, they are indeed awesome. For me it was the pain in the butt factor of finding the time to drive out there and fight traffic factor, though, so I just learned to change them myself.

I enjoy swapping u-joints, and I found it to be much easier than I expected. If you use the hammer and socket method there's no danger of bending the ears and by *almost* seating it on one side and then *almost* seating it on the other side before the final taps that let you put in the c-clip, you end up with some really fluid u-joints.

x2 on Mark's axle tube seal suggestion. Just keeps things much neater for the future.

Biggest advice on changing axleshaft joints though? Don't Hulk out and smash your finger with a hammer.

Right, Clayton?

I wasn't there but I can just picture Clayton's finger throbbing like in the cartoons.
OUCH!!!

Alloy USA Axle Tube Seals for 84-06 Jeep Vehicles with 27 Spline Dana 30 Front Axles

Can someone tell me what a spline is?  How would I find out what I have?

Hi Derrell,, you have a Dana 30,, I'm 99 +++% sure you do.
 Those are the ones that fit your jeep, they fit the factory diameter axle shafts.
You have a dana 30 it is 27 spline.

The splines are on the inside ( non seen to you ) end of each axle where it goes into the carrier through the spider gears ( inside the cover),,

more spline=larger diameter=stronger


pull it and count the splines.

He has a factory dana 30 so it is 27 spline,, you don't have to take it apart..

The only 100% way to know splines is to pull it and count. If he got it from the factory and it's 100% stock or knows for sure that it's 100% stock, then you can assume it's 27 spline. But beyond that, there is no knowing.

I have seen it and it is stock, taking it apart just for that is not worth it they are all 27 spline.

Thanks Mark!  So my rear D44 should have more then? 

Desertzj - It is factory.  Thanks also!

30 spline

For reference, in case someone else wasn't clear either.

Splines are the number of ridges on the end of the shaft like the one below: