My JKuR build

Alright,
So i am starting to finally make real upgrades and i figured i should share with you all!
As a memory here is my 08 jkur in stock form and then as i prepare for my first mod a few weeks ago..

As shown in my other thread here is my first mod. A Poison Spyder brawler lite with skid plate



I am still not sure why the pictures are sideways..

The next thing i'll be doing is swapping out the stock draglink and tie rod for Synergy replacements. I was doing a check up on the jk (as ill be driving it for jeep beach in Daytona next month) when i noticed that my 5 months and about 4k miles TRE were starting to show up and down play as well as a noticeable clunk while cycling the steering.
I also ordered a rough country steering stabilizer relocation bracket. I figured a mother 20 bucks to save it from trail damage would be worth it.

Hopefully this weekend ill be putting these parts on and will update with pictures.

looks good

Looks good. I have a northridge 4x4 bolt upgrade kit that would go nice with those new tie rods. Let me know if you're interested. 

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/nr4x4-jeep-jk-hardware-kit

dongalonga wrote:Looks good. I have a northridge 4x4 bolt upgrade kit that would go nice with those new tie rods. Let me know if you're interested. 

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/nr4x4-jeep-jk-hardware-kit

It looks like the PO swappes out the stock bolts and put in class 10.9 (metric bolts).
According to This bolt comparison website grade 8 and class 10.9 are the same.

Correct me if i understood the above link incorrectly and thanks for the offer !

Should be ok from what I know.

Bumper looks good - I just did a parking-lot-bumper-swap too!

Woot!

Good for you for taking care of the basics before worrying too much about lifting/aesthetic mods! Not enough people have their priorities straight when they start out.

DakotaBuck wrote:Bumper looks good - I just did a parking-lot-bumper-swap too!

Thanks!.. it was a pain in the butt to get those old rusty bolts out and then even more of a pain to bolt up the bumper since the edisco motor bassically takes up the whole right side of the bumper more specifically where the bolts are.

CrawlingForward wrote:Woot!

Good for you for taking care of the basics before worrying too much about lifting/aesthetic mods!  Not enough people have their priorities straight when they start out.

Yea but now i'm in the market for 2.5 -3 inch coils as the bumper has caused major sagging in the front end (3 inches would probably pushing it to the max due to drive line angles). The PO had a 2.5 BB so i would simply be replacing the coils and spacer out for the aftermarket coils.

My best advice with the lift is to research like there is no tomorrow. You are better off speeding more up front and doing the suspension once and correctly. Make sure you plan for all of the extras like front driveshaft clearance and so on. Can't wait to see what it looks like.

I've been a bit lazy posting up pictures (got the Synergy tie rod and rag link installed already) but today i am excited. just received my 35' mtr w/ kevlar tires.



But i have a dilemma for some reason the front springs are #14 (why i don't know     ) i always thought Rubis had stiffer springs. at any rate its currently sagging enough that i have about 1 inch of travel before bumpstop.

the question is to mount the tires and put them on the JK (hopefully no rubbing unless disconnected) or will i be rubbing over every bump?

obviously the tire with no air and no load is pretty big but i assume that once mounted and at about 28-30 psi i will have just about (hairline) enough clearance left.

theres a pretty good deal over at krawl-offroad.com where i can get Rock Krawler 2.5 progressive (triple) rate front coils for $125 shipped. it seems like a no brainer that i need these as oppose to going on craigslist from some stiffer stock springs that would sag anyways.

any input guys?

sexy!

If you have one inch of travel before bumpstop, then you'll most likely hit your bumpstops before you have to worry about your tires getting into the fenders...

However, I'm not sure on the backspacing of JK rubi wheels but you'll most likely rub when steering on whatever they meet first. probably coils or the bucket. Maybe wherever the sway bar is for you weird JK guys...

How long you plan on runnin the 35's stock? I'd imagine it would get annoying to run them for weeks on end like this..few days won't hurt

Tonellin wrote:sexy!

If you have one inch of travel before bumpstop, then you'll most likely hit your bumpstops before you have to worry about your tires getting into the fenders...

However, I'm not sure on the backspacing of JK rubi wheels but you'll most likely rub when steering on whatever they meet first.  probably coils or the bucket. Maybe wherever the sway bar is for you weird JK guys...

How long you plan on runnin the 35's stock? I'd imagine it would get annoying to run them for weeks on end like this..few days won't hurt

I have wheel spacers to account for the backspacing so on turning i think I'm good. the 2.5 budget boost will need to hold up (at least for the rear) i definitely want to re-gain the front up travel though.. thats why i am considering the RK 2.5 front coils.

I ran 315/70R17 Duratracs on my JK with a Rough Country 2.5 spacer BB and cut fenders with no issues.

Finally got them mounted. I did also order the front spring as i rechecked and i am basically on the bumpstop 90% of the time  . Anyways im happy the ride isnt as rough as it was when i had the old bfgoodrich KM tires.

Took out the teraflex spacer in the front today and got way more lift than expected from Rk 2.5 inch springs even with a fornt bumper and skid plate. But hopefully the springs will settle down a bit.



Still dont understand why they pictures are sideways if they are taken vertically. Tomorrow will finish up with a before and after picture

Can't wait to see it.

+1

Got a bit busy and kept forgetting to take pictures but here they are
#1 factory coil plus 2.5 inch space with steel bumper mounted

#2 RK 2.5 triple rates with steel bumper installed


Sorry for the sideways pictures but got back just a tiny bit more than 2.5 of lift with the springs !! Now it doesnt feel like im driving a dropped honda civic

It's been a while since i made any changes to the jk but in the last month i've added: Rancho control arm drop brackets to get caster back in its happy place and get rid of the flighty steering from a lift with stock arms
Rancho rs9000xl adjustable shocks
I also just added the teraflex rear trackbar raised bracket to improve roll center.
Here are some pics

I've never seen control arm drop brackets, must be a JK thing. Do a lot of guys use them? I'd imagine it would suck to get the arms hung up on more obstacles but the onroad handling and offroad movement of the CA's must be huge benefits

It's Looking Good!
Some companies manufacture them brackets for the TJ's also.
More of an on road thing ? as the arms are back to what looks like stock angle with the brackets, which would probably help handling at high speeds..

You can see where it looks like the oe bracket hit before,{maybe it didn't} but now it's kinda hindering the goal of obtaining ground clearance.
It looks like they are going to hit rocks, stumps etc, more often than without them and that's not good for the arms and brackets.
Just try it out that way and crawl the smaller rocks and such. ,,,MY 02,, Nothing more.

Yea the stock bracket has hit before and i expect these to hit again. But its risk vs reward. Driving with the brackets is completely night and day difference jeep is not flighty now its controlled and predictable plus i no longer get a nose dove when braking. I considered adjustable control arms but the brackets do so much more in adjusting the angles at a cheaper price (about $125). Its worth it for me as i do a lot of highway driving and towing.
I've only had the chance to go out on the trails 1 maybe two times this season( i would like to be out more often). And if i bang them up pretty bad the stock arms are on CL all the time real cheap.

I had been slowly searching and at the same time putting off tracking down an electrical problem/gremlin that lives in my jeep. a few months back my swaybar light started to flash, coincidentally or not i had just installed my 35'' tires so my tpms was going off, MyGig screen goes off or fuzzy like high/low voltage  and then to top it off got a starting issue.

So what i have done is the following:
1-Got new battery from autozone duralast platinum agm deep cycle and load tested this past weekend at 12.7v
2-replaced starter
3-Superchips flashcal and set tpms low at 22psi (currently run at 28 psi)
4-dissasembled the rubicon smartbar (electronic disconnect swaybar) module cleaned the connectors and used dielectric grease as this is not waterproof from factory and is one of the exposed lowest points on the jeep.

At this point i have figured out:
1-if jeep doesnt turn on:
 a-roll it a bit
 b-give it a few seconds and the retry
 c-shift from P to N and it starts almost every time
2-TPMS is not a bad sensor as its a steady light and i have inflated the tires upto 40 psi and drove a day

My assumption is the swaybar connector has finally crapped out and shorted causing the canbus system to act haywire.

Thinking of going to the dealer and having them remove this feature from the jeeps computer ( i assume a reflash of the TIPM) secure all the grounds and switching to a manual disconnect system

I called Superchips since i have their flashcal programmer to find out if it would turn off the swaybar light (effectively making the jeep think it doesnt exist) and their answer was 'No but our traildash programmer does perform this action for you" of course at $500 i would expect this given that the competitor AEV Procal does this at $150. Superchips offered a trade in discount that would bring the trail dash down to $360 but given that i dont need all the additional features it maybe cheaper to get a Procal and sell my current flashcal or just go to the dealer and hope a tech there knows how to use their star scan tool.