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Might be time for a new Jeep

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Andrew Miller
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Post  desertzj 7/1/2014, 10:49 am

So might be selling my zj and finding a tj.
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Post  Tonellin 7/1/2014, 1:21 pm

ahhh welcome to the right side....you're soon gonna wonder how you ever lived without a wrangler
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Post  desertzj 7/1/2014, 1:22 pm

Tonellin wrote:ahhh welcome to the right side....you're soon gonna wonder how you ever lived without a wrangler
Haha I actually used to have one. Long ago
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Post  Tonellin 7/1/2014, 1:27 pm

desertzj wrote:
Tonellin wrote:ahhh welcome to the right side....you're soon gonna wonder how you ever lived without a wrangler
Haha I actually used to have one. Long ago

Well it's about damn time you get another one

DD or just a beater? There are always a ton on craigslist and such but people want crazy money for their junkers most of the time
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Post  desertzj 7/1/2014, 1:39 pm

Tonellin wrote:
desertzj wrote:
Tonellin wrote:ahhh welcome to the right side....you're soon gonna wonder how you ever lived without a wrangler
Haha I actually used to have one. Long ago

Well it's about damn time you get another one

DD or just a beater? There are always a ton on craigslist and such but people want crazy money for their junkers most of the time

Haha dd. Yea I was browsing around couldn't believe what people are asking for 100k+ vehicles with rust. I'm hoping to stay around 10k after my heeps worth. Either try and sell it for 2k or just take the grand a dealership will give me. Have my eye on a 2000 tj Saraha that has a small lift and what looks like 31s with 60k. 4.0 manual tranny. If I trade mine in I'm keeping my 33s. Theyre asking 13 for it. Figure between talking them down and mine I'll be around 11 or so. Has a hard top no soft (not a huge deal to me I'll leave the top off and get a bikini). But my zj rolled 204k and I rather get something a little newer to invest into building
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Post  Jake 7/1/2014, 1:43 pm

Tonellin wrote:DD or just a beater? There are always a ton on craigslist and such but people want crazy money for their junkers most of the time

This is the main reason I ended up in an XJ. Wrangler's hold some weird artificial value. Also because I wanted more space, and unfortunately didn't know LJ's were a thing.
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Post  Tonellin 7/1/2014, 1:51 pm

desertzj wrote:
Tonellin wrote:
desertzj wrote:
Tonellin wrote:ahhh welcome to the right side....you're soon gonna wonder how you ever lived without a wrangler
Haha I actually used to have one. Long ago

Well it's about damn time you get another one

DD or just a beater? There are always a ton on craigslist and such but people want crazy money for their junkers most of the time

Haha dd. Yea I was browsing around couldn't believe what people are asking for 100k+ vehicles with rust. I'm hoping to stay around 10k after my heeps worth. Either try and sell it for 2k or just take the grand a dealership will give me. Have my eye on a 2000 tj Saraha that has a small lift and what looks like 31s with 60k. 4.0 manual tranny. If I trade mine in I'm keeping my 33s. Theyre asking 13 for it. Figure between talking them down and mine I'll be around 11 or so. Has a hard top no soft (not a huge deal to me I'll leave the top off and get a bikini). But my zj rolled 204k and I rather get something a little newer to invest into building

Maybe even a D44, they were an option on the Sahara package - unfortunately my old '01 Sahara didn't have that and I blew up the 35 rather quickly...

That is nice and low mileage but holy crap hopefully you can talk them down that's a decade and a half old vehicle.

hobhayward wrote:
Tonellin wrote:DD or just a beater? There are always a ton on craigslist and such but people want crazy money for their junkers most of the time

This is the main reason I ended up in an XJ. Wrangler's hold some weird artificial value. Also because I wanted more space, and unfortunately didn't know LJ's were a thing.

It's insane what they get on open market... I see guys trying to sell beat to crap 4cyls with crappy lifts and 35's for 14-16 grand all the time
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Post  desertzj 7/1/2014, 1:54 pm

I know right. Luckily I used to work for a dealer so I get the inside workings. Tried to get them to figure out what rear axle it is...idiots know nothing of course so waiting on a build sheet from chrysler
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Post  Scarytallman 7/1/2014, 2:50 pm

Happy hunting.
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Post  dongalonga 7/2/2014, 10:46 am

I paid about the asking price of that Sahara for my 05' LJ with under 50k! Keep looking you will find one.
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Post  desertzj 7/2/2014, 3:36 pm

dongalonga wrote:I paid about the asking price of that Sahara for my 05' LJ with under 50k! Keep looking you will find one.
Dang good deal. Private party or dealer?
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Post  dongalonga 7/2/2014, 3:52 pm

Dealer
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Post  desertzj 7/2/2014, 3:54 pm

dongalonga wrote:Dealer
If you don't mind me asking which one so I can keep an eye out of their inventory
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Post  dongalonga 7/2/2014, 4:15 pm

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Post  desertzj 7/2/2014, 4:44 pm

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Post  desertzj 7/3/2014, 5:09 pm

So found a rubicon...seems like with talking down it might be a pretty good deal (assuming I can get financed haha) thoughts?

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tab=map&listingId=609376107

I don't mind the milage (drove mine to 200k lol)
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Post  janesy 7/3/2014, 8:09 pm

You can probably get them down a bit. I picked up my '03 Rubi w/ just over 100k for 10 grand. Asking 11k but since the front locker wasn't working (which was an easy fix) I got em 1k down.

It certainly is nice having lockers, 4.10's, and the 4:1 right out of the box. Soo capable right away, just slap on some 33's. I got carried away, but depending on your mission, can't do any better in stock form.
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Post  desertzj 7/3/2014, 8:18 pm

janesy wrote:You can probably get them down a bit. I picked up my '03 Rubi w/ just over 100k for 10 grand. Asking 11k but since the front locker wasn't working (which was an easy fix) I got em 1k down.

It certainly is nice having lockers, 4.10's, and the 4:1 right out of the box. Soo capable right away, just slap on some 33's. I got carried away, but depending on your mission, can't do any better in stock form.

I'll get carried away but I have the same thought process I found a red rubi with 115 (I think) for 11 or 12k. Knowing I can talk them down a bit I'd expect around 10k if I trade in before taxes

edit: ah found it
http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=603783321&listingRecNum=6&criteria=feedSegId%3D28705%26rpp%3D50%26transTypeId%3D28112%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26requestorTrackingInfo%3DRTB_SEARCH%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26stkTypId%3D28881%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26rn%3D0%26prcId%3D28578%26zc%3D02062%26rd%3D50%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-pseudoPrice%26mdId%3D22306%26stkTyp%3DU%26mkId%3D20021%26sf1Dir%3DDESC&aff=national&listType=1

05 128k asking 13 (def to high)
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Post  Andrew Miller 7/4/2014, 12:32 am

Thats a nice rubi, i would check to see if they have any record of the clutch being done at all seeing it has over 100k on it.
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Post  desertzj 7/8/2014, 1:06 pm

Andrew Miller wrote:Thats a nice rubi, i would check to see if they have any record of the clutch being done at all seeing it has over 100k on it.

so went a drove that rubi today, has some issues (input is appreciated)

AC is blowing through defroster vents (they said they'd fix it before i take it)

Needs a brake job (squishy but it was sitting for about 2 weeks so could explain the burning smell I got

Lots of play in the stick when in 4low. could hear clatter but seemed to function fine

Rear pinon seal on the differential has a leak but it's not major.

some surface rust but nothing major (starting a rust spot in the same place as Andrew has on his front fender haha)

2 tires will need to be replaced (32" toyos on steel D)

outside of that, some rust on the after market parts but nothing too bad. Has OME shocks that will probably need to be replaced in a year or so. Steering stabilizer is shot but that's no big deal. It's clearly been wheeled the tcase skid has some good marks and has some dents nothing major though. Not finding any frame rust or anything else on the body.

He's asking 13, i'm sure I could get down to at least 12500 but my goal would be 12 as long as those major issues are fixed.

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Post  AquilesT 7/8/2014, 2:55 pm

desertzj wrote:
so went a drove that rubi today, has some issues (input is appreciated)

AC is blowing through defroster vents (they said they'd fix it before i take it)

Needs a brake job (squishy but it was sitting for about 2 weeks so could explain the burning smell I got

Lots of play in the stick when in 4low. could hear clatter but seemed to function fine

Rear pinon seal on the differential has a leak but it's not major.

some surface rust but nothing major (starting a rust spot in the same place as Andrew has on his front fender haha)

2 tires will need to be replaced (32" toyos on steel D)

outside of that, some rust on the after market parts but nothing too bad. Has OME shocks that will probably need to be replaced in a year or so. Steering stabilizer is shot but that's no big deal. It's clearly been wheeled the tcase skid has some good marks and has some dents nothing major though. Not finding any frame rust or anything else on the body.

He's asking 13, i'm sure I could get down to at least 12500 but my goal would be 12 as long as those major issues are fixed.

If everything was in working order you could still probably get 500-1k off.
1k off for all of that does seem fair (for you at least) given that in the end you'll have the shell it out of pocket. since they are already fixing the AC have them fix the leaky seal. Ask for another test drive and get a better feel for the brakes its a cheap fix and its a safety item that the dealer should fix prior to inspection/delivery.

I dont have experience with manual trans but maybe you should get an opinion from a independent tech on it or someone here can chime in.


Last edited by eldomi809 on 7/8/2014, 4:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post  THOOPY3 7/8/2014, 3:29 pm

I wouldn't go higher than 11K purely on principle, and honestly I'd probably start even lower than that, even with and because of all the aftermarket stuff.

If you can tell that the thing's been beat on pretty good, it's a bit of a risk no matter what, and you can negotiate that with the dealer in your favor. Rust happens on its own around here, but skid plate damage, a leaky pinion seal, and chatter from a transfer case do not. You can assume that other components probably need some looking at too (it's a used car so this obviously goes without saying), but it's amplified that much more when you can tell something's been wheeled. It's pretty much an invitation for you to point to problem areas and make them think you're willing to walk. I'd make sure not to hint that you have plans to wheel the thing either, because then they know that none of the stuff you've pointed out actually matters in your decision.

You say the steering shock is blown? Boom you tell them that and you ball park way high on it and never let them know you can change it on your own. Always negotiate problem areas with the assumption that you're not doing the work. The pinion seal? I'd tell them that you're pretty confident that means there's a major problem with the rear end. And unless they're a dedicated off-road vehicle seller, I honestly might not trust them to do the work to replace it. The transfer case is the big one to me. I'd negotiate it way down if it made any noise at all, and you tell them point blank "What good is a Jeep to me in New England if the four-wheel drive stops working?" Make them think you want the thing for the winter.

That's just how I'd approach it. It does look like a nice ride from the photos, but as the saying goes looks only get you so far. All those issues that you (or us in the four wheeling world) think are minor are major negotiating points, you just don't think so because you've been in the four-wheeling world for a number of years. Think how someone who's been driving a Civic all their life would approach the thing and then the perspective changes slightly. Obviously you don't need to sound totally oblivious, but the seller is at your mercy not the other way around. Use that to your advantage.
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Post  dongalonga 7/9/2014, 12:34 am

Do not buy a vehicle unless they are willing to get the thing working right first. A leaking pinion, squishy brakes, steering stabilizer, bald tires, and non functioning AC are no go items in my book. The rust is fine as you won't find many without any.
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Post  Tonellin 7/9/2014, 8:47 am

I just saw this thread on JF haha

I would try and talk them down but none of those issues are anything serious.  This is all stuff that can be done in one afternoon IF the jeep is worth buying and these are the only issues.  The big ticket items with rubicons are obviously checking the D44 fluid levels (especially the one leaking!!) it's very simple just bring a 3/8 ratchet and extension, making sure the lockers work in 4lo and checking the transfer case for problems.  It is a very noise transfer case in general so don't let a lot of 'whining' scare you

I agree 1,000% with THOOPY about not trusting the work they are doing before they sell it to you.  Remember they are trying to squeeze every penny out of the deal so that means cutting corners on quality of parts or installation...talk them down for the amount it will cost you to do work and buy a couple guys on here some beers and we can help you do the work no problem.

What do you mean lots of play in the stick? You mean the actual lever you pull to engage 4lo moves? If it's side to side I'm pretty sure that is very normal and I'll double check when I go home today. If it feels like it's moving up and down like it's going to pop out of 4lo then it sounds like the cable needs adjusting which is also a simple fix.

Keep in mind there are also going to be a handful of issues you aren't able to see instantly given how poorly maintained/potentially abused this rig has been.  Factor that into your cost. Pinion seal replacement is about $20 for lubelocker gasket and $40 or so for gear oil required for the rubi 44's
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