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Steves 98 XJ build

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blue55
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 8:09 am

Hello All,

I suppose since I am neck deep in this jeep now, it is time to start a build thread.  Currently, I don't have a car.  I only have a motorcycle.  My fiance just became an RN and is required to work during snow emergencies.  She drives a VW TDI so.. I don't wanna drive that thing in a blizzard.  This is also going to be my main vehicle so I am looking to make it as comfortable as a cherokee can be.  So a jeep build it is!

When I first drove it I knew right away that I was going to have to redo the entire suspension/steering.  I was told the suspension was a budget lift.  Def rode like one.  The wheel had a dead spot where the tires didnt turn and it would actually lock up a little.  The thing couldnt stay in a straight line to save its life either.  Then I looked underneath and realized why.  See pictures below.

Also, The interior was only half there.  So, I am going to redo the entire interior minus the dash.  On to the pics.

This is the rig as bought:
Steves 98 XJ build Jeep12

Front Suspension:
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_10

Rear:
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_11

I asked him why the zip ties? He told me the blocks had a tendancy to walk out while he was driving scratch 

Homebrew stabilizer bracket:
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_12

I forgot to mention that EVERY suspension/steering bolt was loose on this rig by 1/16" to 1/8".  Dont know how someone didnt die.

Rotted Leaf Perch
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_13

Hitch was welded in.  I had to drop the gas tank to get to the welds.
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_14
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_15

Aaaand this is where it sits now
Steves 98 XJ build Photo_16

So.  This is the plan.  IRO 6.5" long arm kit is coming in today.  But, I am going to do the pinion seal on the front and POR15 the axle first.  I also have a freeze plug issue to deal with.. figured it would be easier with the axle out.  

I am going to cut that rotted spring perch out.  I have already ordered the HD Offroad no lift shackle re-locator.  Since that requires the perch to be cut out I figured it would be an easy fix and improve my ride.  Excellent.

Once everything is mechanically sound I will move on to the interior.  Will be lowering the seat for a little more comfort (im 6'4").  I ordered a new carpet.  100 square feet of B-quiet sound deadener.  Then I will be looking for new plastic.  Before I can do that I need to chase down a couple small water leaks.

From there it is bumpers and rock rails, but, money does not allow me to entertain that thought right now.  My goal is to just have this thing mechanically sound and on the road by Dec 1.

Will have more updated next week.  Gonna be gone all weekend so no wrenching Mad


Last edited by lasemase72 on 10/3/2013, 8:25 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 8:21 am

Forgot to mention.  This also came with an NP231 with a SYE.  Custom rear drive shaft and a front drive shaft out of a ZJ. The rig came with all the parts to do a read ZJ disc swap as well.

The wheels are Mickey Thomson Classic IIs 18x10 and the tires are Mickey Thompson MTZs.  Wheels and tires are def going to change.  Will either go with Treadwright Guard Dogs or Kuhmo Road Venture MTs.  I had the Kuhmos on a JK I owned 3 years ago in 35s and LOOOVED them.  Cant beat the price of the Treadwrights though.  Not sure if I will go with 33s or 35s yet.
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Post  Tonellin 10/3/2013, 8:33 am

holy crap those zip ties....that's insane

the booger weld on the homebrew stabalizer is pretty funny too

looks like you got yourself a fun project, looks like most of your time will be spent correcting PO's mistakes haha
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 8:39 am

Lol yeah. Literally everything he did suspension/steering wise is going the way of the Dodo.
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 9:20 am

Are you planning to run 35s with a Dana 35? if so make sure you bring spare axles with you.
That's a  recipe for disaster.
Hopefully you have the tow package with the dana 44 and a hp 30.
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 10:24 am

It came with a D30 up front and a Chrysler 8.25 in the rear. From what I have read, it can hold up to 35s. In reality, I am leaning towards 33s just for reduced parts wear. But, I have played the game where I got 33s and was sorry i didnt get 35s. So I have still to come to a decision.
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 10:26 am

At least you have a 8.25 as compared to a 35.Does it have a hp 30?
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 10:28 am

I am new to XJ's so any input anyone has is totally welcomed.
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 10:31 am

A high pinion dana 30 is stronger than a standard low pinion 30.
What year is the jeep
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 10:35 am

It is a 1998. I dont think I would know what to look for. What are the indicators that it is or is not HP?
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Post  Tonellin 10/3/2013, 10:37 am

From my XJ days I'm pretty sure you have the HP30..

the LP30 was made for a few years after 2000...which is why anyone doing 30 junkyard swaps looks for mid-late 90's XJ's.  HP30 and bigger u-joints in the late 90's XJ's
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Post  Tonellin 10/3/2013, 10:42 am

lasemase72 wrote:It is a 1998.  I dont think I would know what to look for.  What are the indicators that it is or is not HP?
You can tell pretty easily just by eye balling the axle.  The LP shaft is below the axle line where as the HP shaft is slightly above the axle line. I'm willing to bet you've got the HP in the 98 though so long as the PO didn't screw that up too haha
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 10:45 am

It should have a hp 30,, xjs up to 1999 should be hp 30.
If you look at where front drive shaft connects to pinion yoke and note if the pinion is more even with the axle tubes or if it is lower than the axle tube center line.
Imaginary line through axle tubes and pinion, look where the pinion intersects with it,,,is it  above or below intersect point.
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 10:46 am

Exellent. I will take a look when i get home from work. Thanks for the protips
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 10:47 am

Posting at same time , lol,    yeah what he said.
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 11:03 am

Some of the other members have swapped in XJ hp30s in place of their lp 30s in their TJs and are running 35s, I believe that RYAN has done that.
I have 2 of the XJ hp's and  3 lp 30s in my parts stash, among others.
I'll swap in one of the hp's some day.
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 11:23 am

The other thing keeping me away from 35s is the stock 3.55 gearing... I have a 5 speed.. Would at least like to use 4 of those gears. Can anyone comment on a 35-3.55 combo? I assume it would be just terrible
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Post  blue55 10/3/2013, 11:29 am

I had 355s in my TJ with 31s and it was ok but when I went to 33s I put 373s but it is not great on the highway as it would be with 410s with the 33s.
355s With 35s is not good.
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Post  Tonellin 10/3/2013, 11:34 am

Not bad if you don't mind 3rd being your new 5th gear lol It's going to be an absolute dog...doable if you just need to get around town but forget the highway or any steep grades
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 11:43 am

You hit the nail on the head. 355s with 35s is a no no.  As in, is this a 3 speed now.
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 12:19 pm

yeah kinda figured... Gear swap is by no means in the near future so I will prolly stick with 33s.
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Post  Mark 10/3/2013, 12:23 pm

Good choice.
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Post  lasemase72 10/3/2013, 12:37 pm

Here is a question for you. Another wheel tire option Ive been rolling around. It came with the 18x10 MTs and 33x13.5R18 MT MTZs. Tires are at 40-50%. Was going to sell this combo and get new tires with 15" rims with the money.

My main concern is airing down with such a large rim. Also, 13.5 is such a wide tire. I cant imagine it would be any good in the snow.

Thoughts?
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Post  blue55 10/3/2013, 12:40 pm

Go with 15x8 or 16x8 inch wheels and 33 x12.5 inch tires.
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Post  lasemase72 10/8/2013, 8:29 am

So I put in the new transfer case cross member last night. Off course I snapped off one of the threaded posts.. Anyway, After I finished putting it in and tightened the transfer case mount bolts, I grabbed the transfer case and noticed that it shakes quite a bit. Like it is totally loose. I have never dropped a transfer case on a jeep before.. Does this mean that all the bolts connecting it to the transmission are loose or do I need a new transfer case mount? My assumption is that everything is loose.

My next question would be.. Can I get to the bolts without dropping the cross member again? I want to weld it in place but dont want to until the transfer case is squared away. I believe the transfer case has threaded posts so I would be looking for 9/16" nuts.. correct?

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