Andrew's Yellow Jeep Build.

Amills60 wrote:Tell me how much you want for them and I'll but them haha

$2,499 exactly. HP30 with the Detroit TruTrac, Moog joints, and upgraded steering shit, as well as a SOLID diff and the ever challenging 4.10s... and my ECGS 8.8 with 4.10s, limited slip, new e-brake pads, and 31 spline shafts. E-brake lines included.

Hmmmmm I don't know about that haha

Ahhhh I get it, you had a typo there. It's really supposed to be $24.99. Sold!

Well, as I am still down here in Maryland until the weekend, my sister was home today and said that there were 2 packages sitting on the stone wall for me. She said that they were heavy. It was either the control arms, or the steering. Or both! I can't wait to get home!

So what was in those boxes?

saxmanclay wrote:So what was in those boxes?

Well,

Some Serious Offroad Products Steering, and 4 Currie lower control arms!


On one of the end links on the steering, the joint is bent, not sure if i am using the correct wording here, im not sure if all it needs is to be greased in order to move it, but here are some pictures. Bailey is trying to figure out what this is, and if she will be safe standing there.




This whole steering system is pure beef! I also wanna make this an over the knuckle system. Will this be possible?


On a side note, next week i will be taking the transmission out of the jeep to replace some syncros as the tranny is grinding every time i shift into second. I almost always have to double clutch it, and even then it still sometimes jams. Yes it was doing it back before i changed the clutch and pressure plate in December of 2011, and we were going back and forth whether it was the syncros or the clutch. Well, we changed the clutch and it was in fact smoked, so it was a good thing that we had changed it. Well, this issue had gone away except at first start up until the tranny was warm, and it has become more and more noticeable over the past couple of weeks. I hope i am making some sense. Just another minor setback. Oh well, Its a Jeep thing!

What are you using for fluid in transmission?

It's okay if the joint shifted a bit. Just make it straight before you put it in and it'll be fine. If you want to go over the knuckle, you'll have to weld in new sway bar brackets. I used this tie rod flip kit on Danielle's jeep, and so far it's worked great.

http://www.blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

They also have sway bar brackets you can purchase there too. So for $75 you get new brackets and new bars. It's something to think about.

Is that a cut in the rubber boot on tie rod?.
It sure looks like that in picture, if so get a new boot before you install it.

On another note, do not use gl-5 gear oil in your transmission because it EATS away at synchros.
I would try changing fluid before you remove transmission
I had same issue with my ax15 and 10-30 cured it.

If your owners manual says to use GL-5 it is a misprint.
I believe you should use GL-3 that they do not make any more i believe.
10-30 synthetic motor oil is fine and depending on what year yours is and what trans you have you can use pennzoil synchromesh.
AX -15 use the motor oil.

I have the nv3550, in 2000 the started with the nv3550. '99 was the last year for the ax-15. But I am gonna drain the fluid next week and put in new fluid with the synchromesh. The fluid was last replaced when I did the clutch back in December. I believe there is mobile 1 but I'm not positive. If I can't get this tranny problem figured out/ fixed soon, then the axle swap is gonna have to wait. And if so, I'm gonna need to find some good used tires to pass inspection in december. My tires right now will not pass, except for one.

Amills60 wrote:I have the nv3550, in 2000 the started with the nv3550. '99 was the last year for the ax-15. But I am gonna drain the fluid next week and put in new fluid with the synchromesh. The fluid was last replaced when I did the clutch back in December. I believe there is mobile 1 but I'm not positive. If I can't get this tranny problem figured out/ fixed soon, then the axle swap is gonna have to wait. And if so, I'm gonna need to find some good used tires to pass inspection in december. My tires right now will not pass, except for one.

Buy Clay's 33s

Ryan M wrote:

Buy Clay's 33s

Do this and I'll throw in a 35 tooth speedo gear for free.

Will they pass inspection?

Amills60 wrote:Will they pass inspection?

They did when I had them on my Jeep. One is a little messed up cause I didn't align it after I lifted my Jeep, but they can at least get you through for a year without issues.

I'd even be willing to meet you halfway or at a tire mounting place to get them put on.

Updates soon.

Both front and rear rampage bumpers have been installed as well as the tire carrier. Also, the new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing should be in this week. I need to replace all three again because the guy who helped me back in december, installed a bad pressure plate with a bent finger which is hitting the throwout bearing causing a pulsation on the clutch pedal. This has also contributed to the jamming and grinding when shifting into second. I cant even down shift. So now i get to do the clutch all over again. I got a pretty good deal through someone i know and im getting all three for a total of $240. Hopefully i can get the transmission running right before the next club run!

Well, today is the day. The jeep gets a new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing for the second time in one year. Im kinda anxious to which part was the weak link, either that or it was installation error while replacing it back in december. (not my installation error)Anyway, my uncle is coming to the house to help me in the garage with the jeep today and he is going to walk me through it. This new clutch kit is a heavy duty kit.

In august i had put in some 75w-90 trans fluid in to see if it would help fix the problem when shifting, but seeing as it has been diagnosed as a bad pressure plate the 75w-90 has done jack shit to help, if anything it has made it worse. So after looking into which fluid is the best to use after about the 10th time, i have decided to the jeep dealer and pick up some of their Mopar fluid seeing thats what came in the tranny from the factory and worked great. And it is also synthetic. Leaving in a few minutes to go pick that up, and when i get back my uncle should be here.

You can use 5/30 or 10/30 motor oil with no problem at all. Synthetic or regular will work and it is way less expensive.
I would use regular motor oil to flush it and synthetic after that.
I use it in one of my TJs with no problem at all.
Because of the way the transmission gears are cut you do not need extreme pressure gl5 fluid like the rear end uses
The mopar stuff is way too expensive.

I use 10/30 synthetic motor oil in my TJ transmission too.

Well, I haven't driven the jeep in 3 days and i have to drop the transmission again. We got the new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing in fine, except when we were butting the trans back up with the engine the throw out bearing fork fell off its mounting location on the right side of the bell housing. That side is the side that the throw out bearing fork needs to stay stationary. I discovered this when i had her all put back together and cranked her over, and she wouldn't let me into any gear. So next i took out the slave cylinder and stuck my finger inside the bell housing and felt that the fork had wayyy to much play in it. So it looks like there needs to be some sort of a clip that hold the fork in place on the right side. My uncle called me up yesterday and had me try taking the starter back out and see if i could get a screw driver up into the bell housing to get the fork back on the nylon mounting ball. I could get it on, but it wouldn't stay. So now it all has to come apart again. Unfortunately, my uncle isn't up to helping me anytime soon because he fell the other day in the garage when we were working on the jeep. My dad told me if i want to wait until Tuesday when he gets out of work in the early afternoon he might be able to help me, not sure if i should get my hopes up or expect him to bail again. I don't feel to comfortable taking this apart by myself, so it looks like i will just take it apart piece by piece. Hopefully she will be up and running soon.

Are you putting trans in seperate from transfer case?
It is alot easier to get it right in if t case is not bolted to transmission.
Make shure that alignment dowels are in engine block and not in bellhousing so it will go together easier.
Oh yeah, don't forget the FLUID.
Good luck.

well, i just finished getting the jeep put back together and took her for a drive for the first time in a week. First off, the jeep dies every time i hit the brake and press the clutch in to stop. I would assume that this is because the battery was disconnected for about a week and the computer needs to learn itself over again. Next, i have this friction type smell which again i would assume that it is the new clutch breaking itself in. And lastly, the speedo gear doesnt seem to be working, maybe i reinstalled it wrong? It looked like it was pretty straight forward.

Well, i think i did a pretty damn good job dropping the transmission and reinstalling it by myself for the second time in a week. Just a little discouraged with these little problems. So tomorrow im gonna take a look at the speedo gear again, and im gonna change the transmission fluid.

Any input would be great!

ohhh, and the engine light is on too

Ok so you took out speedo gear, now speedo does not work means that the( vss ) vehicle speed sensor is not working, that is most likely why it stalls .
Check engine light is on because the speed sensor is not working .
Smell may be due to vss having no input to ecu ( computer ) affecitng fuel /air mixture,.etc
Stalling has nothing to do with disconnecting battery or computer relearning.

The vss is installed incorrectly ( wrong orientation )
There are 3 positions that you can install vss , it depends on what the tooth count is on speedo gear.
pull out the vss and let me know how many teeth are on speedo gear, ( it is stamped on gear.)
You did not have to remove the vss when you removed transfer case , you just needed to unplug it.
The vss housing has numbers on it and you position it according to how many teeth on gear.
Mark,

Mark, There are 3 sets of number on the speedo gear. 29-31 32-38 39-45. I didnt see anything else about the tooth count. ill go look again. If talking on the phone is easier to explain stuff, feel free to call me at 5086122017. Thanks again for the help!